So Koh Pha Ngan was everything one would expect of a Thai tropical island- palm trees, beautiful sea, warm weather and noisey gekkos which would wake you during the night. We had 4 full days there- enough time to relax a bit and enjoy being in the same place long enough to unpack properly! We did the usual- elephant trekking, snorkelling and getting a traditional thai massage- which I mistakenly thought would be really relaxing. Sixty painful minutes later I realised I'd thought wrong somewhere! It was here our tradition of fake birthdays came about. Someone would nominate themselves to have a birthday, and at meal times we'd sing happy birthday in the hope that we'd get a free dessert out of it- it worked 3 times out of 4! Half of the group stayed on the island to catch the full moon party (which we were missing by one day!), while the rest of us hopped on the over night train to Bangkok...