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When you read about La Paz in guide books, it is billed as one of the most dangerous cities in the world. Wherever you go someone is trying to rob or attack you and so it doesn't make for a relaxing journey to the a hostel. However what we found was a rough around the edge city with plenty to offer.
Arriving from the salt flats on a night bus we decided to do the obligatory walking tour. Thanks to the really helpful Bolivian guy at the tourist office, not only did we turn up at the wrong time but also the wrong place for the tour. However, all was not lost. We had heard through the gringo grapevine of a former prisoner in San Pedro prison who gave tours around his former penitentiary, a must for any marching powder reader. As it happens, we stumbled upon his tour and were treated to 2 hours of incomprehensible but interesting information on life on the inside, including bumping into some of his former inmates. We learnt in more details about previous escapes, the strife corruption within the prison and even 'crazy Dave's' own story (he was/most definitely still is a heavy drug user from New York who got caught on his first attempt drug trafficking leading to 16 years inside San Pedro). The tour was rounded off by buying Dave living essentials instead of tips in order to help him stay clean. All in all definitely a different experience. We had also seen that there was Chollitas wrestling on offer, which involves local indigenous women wrestling. We thought this sounded a bit too much and gave it a miss.
La Paz, which is at an altitude of 3600m and is nestled within a valley has a series of cable cars aiding your journey to the top. The lines, which are the same colour as the Bolivian flag, offer a cheap way to get great views of the city which we took full advantage off. After the action packed day it was time to check into wild rover hostel for a night of partying (it claims to have the highest Irish bar in the world). In case you're wondering, yes hangovers are a lot worse at high altitude and they should come with a warning. Definitely worth it though, with Alice and Lauren dancing on the bar like something out of Coyote Ugly.
After our five days in the jungle and upon returning to La Paz we treated ourself to an airbnb apartment for some R&R and much needed washing. The flat, which was great value for money (booked pre travel budget I may add), was in the Sopacachi neighbourhood of La Paz, a bit different from the bustle of the centre and filled with embassies and families walking their pedigree dogs.
Feeling refreshed we set off for the witches market which is basically any other touristy market, but with the odd lama foetus on sale. In Bolivia, these are used as good luck charms in new buildings and laid in the foundations to prevent bad omens. The market wasn't all in vein though as Anthony managed to get his holiday souvenir, a poncho, to go with his collection of obscure worldly items.
To finish off our time in La Paz and Lauren and Anthony's holiday we treated ourselves to a nice meal at an Asian, Bolivian fusion restaurant. Yes, I had stir fried lama and a fitting end to their amazing trip. The next few days left Alice and I getting used to be being by ourselves again.
What I would say about La Paz is don't let the horror stories of crime and theft put you off going to it. If you're streetwise and have your wits about you, although not the most beautiful or action packed city, you will have fun.
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