Today Tokyo and I fell out, and then made up in spectacular style. Food Fiend aficionados, this is for you - refer to end of blog.

It started with a mission, a.k.a. wild goose chase. I woke to briefly meet Yumi (my homestay `mum`)`s husband, Yosuke, who had returned from touring Japan. He works as a stage manager for a Japanese band. I then commenced my mission: to alter my plane tickets. A train to Ginza, the area of Tokyo which is the equivalent of Knightsbridge/Bond Street, full of the Guccis and Pradas, and the fashionista Japanese who are fans. Not my favourite place. I pounded the streets fruitlessly for an hour, Cathay Pacific`s address in hand. I asked directions `sumi masen, namikidori e wa do ikeba iidesu ka?` (yes, try saying THAT twenty times in short succession). Japanese are incredibly kind, friendly and helpful, but unfortunately noone here, taxis included, know how to find addresses - possibly something to do with the illogical building number/location system. I strode confidently out of the underground station after asking one of their handy info men, then realised how impossible my task was, stopped in an office and was given instructions and a printed map (in Japanese of course) by the two girls there, and then after 20 more minutes of frustrated search, finally caved in and pounced on a western lady walking along with an English-speaking Japanese companion, who walked me right to the office door! A few minutes and a couple of new and valuable friends later I walked into the ticketing office, only to be told my flight request was impossible!

Mission aborted.

Extremely grumpy, hungry, and stuck in an over-priced and poncy district which was not succeeding in endearing Tokyo to me, I took myself off somewhere more affordable: Ueno, the academic/museum/park/zoo...and arcade area! I attempted to find a restaurant detailled in my guidebook, but this again proved impossible. Much easier to take a chance! So I ducked into a Tempura restaurant, just managed to squeeze into the bar (my legs are longer than the average Japanese, and this proved tricky) and stumbled through ordering a meal. Whilst trying to battle my prawn tempura into more manageable chunks, I managed to knock my miso soup right into my lap...what a day!!

Mission no.2: find an adaptor so that I can finally recharge my camera and get snapping again! Location: Akihabara, an area I can only describe as electric city, with flashing lights, heaving bodies, neon signs, manga cartoons, and plenty of tat. Adaptor bought, mission: Accomplished!

Having seen enough of the city`s sights for one day, I returned home exhausted. I`d make a rubbish 00...although, like Bond, it appears my spirits are restored with an evening out...

Yumi and Yosuke decided to take me to my first ()izakaya(). It was AMAZING! We sat on the floor in a private room in the side of a boat...(in a building), with fish flowing past us in a makeshift river. We had to open our window, and fish for our supper! AND I CAUGHT OURS!!! Less than 10 minutes later, the waiter reappeared with my catch, sliced, diced and SASHIMI-fied! Delicate stomachs look away now: the remaining carcass (head, tail, fins, etc.) of the fish was on the plate, skewered, and with the sushi meat surrounding it - the fish was still flapping...check out my photos for the ultimate before and afters....Most exciting dinner I`ve eaten in my life (sorry mum even your soup can`t beat me catching my own supper). Asahi beer and sake served as a very successful bond for two nations, as Yumi, Yosuke and I conversed in a mixture of english, Japanese, gesticulations, and drawings. Yosuke is hilarious, and kept demanding that our waiter translate what he was saying into `ENGRISH PREASE!!!`.

So Tokyo and I went through a rocky patch, but are back on track once again.

Food Fiends:

* Prawn, bean, aubergine, pumpkin tempura with miso, rice, pickles and a strange white viscous foamy concoction that I suspect was grated radish with egg whites :S not a fan
* Live & kicking sashimi, fish still flickering
* Raw horse...yes...
* BBQ-ed cuttlefish
*Various fish nigiri including scallop, bonito, fatty tuna