We couldn't leave Laos without visiting the magnificent tropical paradise that is Si Phan Don, or 'The Four-Thousand Islands'. Conveniently, Si Phan Don lies only a few kilometers from the Cambodian border crossing that we are heading for. Inconveniently, as we are traveling through the peak of the wet season, the Mekong River is muddy, fast and has swallowed most of the four thousand islands..

Not really thinking this through, we caught a boat out to one of the larger islands, Don Det. It was only when we realised that our boat was angled at 60 degrees from our destination, trying to avoid being dragged down-river, that we knew it was the tourist 'low season' for a reason! We were ignorantly expecting calm blue waters and a patchwork of palm-drenched sandy islands. Instead we were faced with one big muddy Island surrounded by clumps of vegetation sticking out from the passing rapid, brown river.

Despite all of this, Don Det maintained a really quiet, peaceful, naturally beautiful island vibe, and we found a little family-run row of wooden bungalows, with verandahs extended out over the river, complete with a pair of hammocks. Although the amenities were basic, this was the cheapest accommodation we have ever stayed, at only 20,000 Kip ($2.50) a night!

There wasn't a lot to do on the island, and the river was too strong for much swimming or paddling, so we spent a lot of time relaxing in our hammocks.. it's a tough life. A friendly English couple were staying in one of the other bungalows, and we spent a lot of time exchanging travel stories and reminiscing about home comforts.

Watching the tropical wet-season storms come and go from the relative safety of our Bungalow was an awesome experience. Without fail, every afternoon we would watch the huge dark cloud drift over. The wind would pick up and a few minutes later we would need to dive inside as the wind slammed our wooden door shut and near horizontal rain pelted the front of our room! A couple of times the thunder was so loud that we thought the world was ending! An hour or so later we'd be sipping Beer Lao, watching the orange and purple sunset over the Mekong River.

One morning when the sun was out, we dragged ourselves from the hammocks and ventured off for a walk around Don Det and across an old bridge to the neighboring island, Don Khon. The scenery was stunning, with lush green crops, chickens, pigs and buffalo around every muddy bend. We checked out an old railway built by the French, and a powerfully intimidating section of rapids between the two islands. We read that the locals believe these rapids act as a trap for bad spirits, and to swim here would be like tempting fate. Looking at the raging waters and jagged rocks, we suddenly weren't too keen for a swim anyway.

As a last impression of Laos, Don Det summed it up pretty well, with some genuine rural living and laid-back lifestyle. In parts of the island, the swathes of backpackers coming through every year is gradually defeating this genuiness, although the young rice farmers and fisherman definately seemed to be enjoying the extra income!