Due to a rough history, Laos' economic position is much weaker than neighbouring China, Vietnam and Thailand. To improve their economy in the short term, sadly one of the best ways is to allow these neighbours access to their valuable natural resources. The communist big brother China has invested a lot of money in improving Laos roads over the last decade, and in return are ripping apart huge areas of forest for export. Thankfully, there are a few alternative ways to improve the economy and livelihood of the Laos people.

The non-government organisation Animo is doing a lot for the conservation of the forest in north-western Laos. They helped establish the Bokeo Nature Reserve, which includes the ecotourism project known as the Gibbon Experience. This is one of the most amazing and unique experiences around, and the profits contribute to reforestation programs, conservation of Laos forests and wildlife and economic support for surrounding villages. Local Hmong villages are employed as tourist guides and park rangers, supporting their families whilst conserving their environment. Due to this good work, the rainforests in this beautiful part of Laos are flourishing and animals once under threat are now thriving, including the Black Gibbon.

The Gibbon Experience was recommended by friends from home, as well as other travelers, so our expectations were high. No matter how hard it rained, how muddy we got, how far we had to walk, or how much money it cost, we enjoyed an absolutely unforgettable experience and in turn supported a worthwhile cause.

Our package included two nights accomodation in an actual jungle tree house, unlimited zip-lining above the canopy, and lots of hiking through pristine rainforest and past traditional Hmong villages. What more could you want!? The entire rainforest was like our own huge, natural playground; a childhood fantasy come to life!

After crossing the Mekong River from Thailand, we spent a night in the Lao border town of Huay Xai. Early the next morning, we met the other keen Gibboners, sat through a short video briefing, then jumped into the back of a sawngthaw for a smooth, but very rainy and wet, two hour ride to Bokeo Nature Reserve. From the main road we tentatively crossed a wobbly old suspension bridge over a river, waded through a couple of creeks, and passed through rice paddies and corn crops. After only ten minutes walking, we came to a dirt road and a waiting four-wheeled drive wagon. Being the wet season, the dirt road was extremely wet, muddy and slippery and we spend half the journey pushing our ride uphill, or just walking through the knee deep mud as it struggled on ahead. This was a good chance to get to know the other nine adventure seekers and it didn't take long to realise what a great bunch of people we had been teamed up with.

The dirt road ended at a humble little Hmong village, and the real adventure began. From the village, we slipped and slushed our way for over an hour up some very steep and muddy tracks, all the way surrounded by amazing rainforest. Eventually we reached the first 'gibbon experience' hut, where we were harnessed up and, in broken English, shown how to use a zip-line.

Essentially we had a wheel and a makeshift tyre brake attached to our harness. These were clipped onto a thick steel cable, and within a couple of steps we were flying above the canopy across the valley. It was an exhilarating experience, with fantastic views and nothing but our harness and the wind around us. We were too busy taking in the beautiful surroundings to be scared or, on a couple of occasions, apply the brake in time!

From the first hut, it took us another couple of hours of hiking, and half a dozen more zip-lines to reach our treehouse. Our home for the next two nights was accessible only by zip-line, and zooming into the landing platform built at the top of a 30m high tree was unreal. We were living in the highest tree in the valley, completely isolated from the world below and with a 360 degree view of the canopy and all the sounds of the forest to entertain us. Even the shower was open air, with a full breathtaking view of the misty valley below us. By the time we all got there, exhausted but satisfied, we devoured a delicious home cooked meal (delivered by zip-line) and slept very peacefully.

We shared our treehouse with a couple from Holland, and another Aussie couple from Tassy. Everyone got along like old mates. We spent the days hiking, sliding and zipping, and the nights playing games. We didn't count on actually spotting any gibbons, as it was raining a lot and we were making a bit of noise, so it was an added bonus when we woke early one morning and there they were. A family of the once thought endangered Black Gibbon were jumping from tree to tree, only 50m from our house. They were too quick for a photo, and eventually disappeared into the forest, appearing to answer a far away call.

For our last night in the treehouse, we watched a huge thunderstorm pass through and, wary of lightning considering our position, resorted to torch light towards the end of our card game. This downpour completely destroyed what was remaining of the road into camp, so we prepared ourselves for the muddy twenty-odd kilometer hike which laid ahead the next morning. It took us almost eight hours to hike back to the main road in the rain, where we hopped in a car and drove back to Huay Xai. We were tired, hungry and in desperate need of a warm shower, but thoroughly satisfied with our Gibbon Experience.