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'Cinque Terre' translates to 'Five Lands', and refers to a beautiful stretch of the Italian Ligurian coast. In these rugged, steep and dry Mediterranean coastal lands, five small villages have slowly developed to produce some of the tastiest wines, fruit and vegetables in the region. The villages are linked by a narrow trading route that weaves in-between the sea and a sharp cliff face, where defiant orchids and vineyards cover the slopes. It was amazing to see the dramatic effect that local farmers have had on the landscape. After centuries of persistence and calve strengthening, the Italians here have transformed the harsh, rugged and steep cliffs into sustainable and productive croplands.
Aidan had been here four years ago, but camped a few kilometres outside of the Cinque Terre, so this time we were determined to stay in one of the villages themselves. After a couple of hours unsuccessfully searching for an affordable hotel with space for the four of us, one of the hotel managers offered us his spare fully furnished apartment, in the western-most village, Monterosso!
With this as our homely base, we set off along the ancient trading route to explore each of the five villages; Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. It was a fantastic, breathtaking walk with million dollar views of the unique landscape. We puffed and struggled our way up and down the slopes, with a constant view of the stunningly blue waters on one side, and the steep, terraced vineyards and wild, rocky outcrops on the other. There was also a train line which we took advantage of when our old legs grew tired.
Jess and Andy were the first to spot the strange but attractive purple fruits growing from some of the cacti along the track. They looked very tempting, although from the last time he was here, Aidan had a funny feeling that for some reason we shouldn't eat them. He just couldn't remember what the reason was.. Jess and Andy went ahead and ate them anyway. It was only after they found their fingers and lips were covered with tiny, painful, needles that Aidan realised the same thing happened to him last time he was here! It took them nearly an hour to de p****their fingers and lips with their new friend, Mr Tweezers!!
Although all the villages had slight differences in character, amongst the clusters of tall and colorful buildings crammed into the valleys, ridges and slopes, they were all equipped with a boat harbour, at least one beautiful old stone church, and a clock tower. We wandered through the tiny cobbled back streets, and enjoyed shopping around for local delicacies. We tasted Limoncino??, which is a delicious Italian lemon-based liquor, and weaved our way up narrow stone steps between buildings and through the steep vineyard terraces. The villages and vineyards were like a maze and it took some serious navigation to find our way out!
The only downside to the Cinque Terre was the popularity of the place. It was completely overrun by tourists, expensive restaurants and souvenir shops. The sure and constant presence of tourists, all ready to spend, means that the gourmet restaurants have the supply of local produce all tied up. Although we had a kitchen and were staying in a seaside village, the only off-menu seafood we could find was frozen at the back of a freezer in a small grocery store!
Rosie and Andy are now off to track down an old school friend in Switzerland. We haven't decided where we are off to yet, but as we are meeting Em in Nice in six days, we need to find somewhere relatively cheap and entertaining until then. So, after a very relaxing and picture-perfect stay in Cinque Terre, we are now boarding a train to... um, not really sure yet!
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Gdad. Keep it coming .It is all so interesting.