With our minds very clear and open, and irremovable smiles on our faces we left the Ashram to head back into the touristy yet convenient Rishikesh. We picked Easter Sunday as our day of departure, and so appropriately gobbled away on some Indian chocolate bars whilst we sat on the dusty rickshaw. We had already slackened off on our strict yogic diet, although we haven't forgotten what we've learnt and actually spent the last week extending our knowledge of healthy Ayurvedic living by taking some more courses.

We decided to stay in Swarg Ashram, a more Indian-orientated and peaceful part of Rishikesh than Laxman Jhula, where we stayed last time. The particular Ashram that we stayed in had a very different feel than our first ashram, Santosh Puri, but ended up being just what we were after. Despite the prison-like exterior and less communal vibe, it was much less expensive, our room was comfortable and we felt more able to participate in outside classes.

We did attempt to adapt to the ashrams timetable, and tried out the morning asanas yoga class.. We were disappointed to find it wasn't nearly as beautifully crafted as in Santosh Puri. The instructor seemed less experienced and even a little irresponsible with the difficult movements that he was forcing beginners into. After one class, we were both aching for the rest of the week and, like a lot of other students, decided we were better off doing self-practice...

One thing about this ashram that we really enjoyed was the early morning lectures. Every morning, a worldly orange-clad guru called Sant Shri Hari would talk to us all about nutrition, meditation, hand mudras for healing disease, daily yogic stretching and other aspects of healthy living. On request, he even spoke about channeling sexual energy into spiritual awareness.. Although we didn't find use for everything he said, we did find him interesting and it was a great way to get our minds going first thing in the morning.

Being a very tourist-friendly town, Rishikesh offers just about any course you can think of. This was our main incentive for returning, as Jess was eager to find out more about traditional Ayurvedic oil massage, while Aidan was happy to take some more tabla lessons...

Jess's massage course was run by an American who, after studying Chinese medicine, dedicated his life to the Ayurvedic principles of healthy living and self healing. He was a walking library who lived to talk. After signing up for the massage course, Jess was invited to attend a nutrition class that he was running simultaneously. Both classes complemented each other beautifully and together provided a thorough understanding of the idea of 'doshas'. Ayurvedic science is based on the notion that three doshas make up an individual's constitution. As well as providing dietary guidelines, these doshas also suggest the best way to massage, and the most appropriate oils to use for each individual. It was a wholesome way to tie together everything we have learnt in the ashrams during our stay in India.

The Ayurvedic massage course was very different to the Thai massage course that Jess learnt last year. Despite the incredible physical benefits, the Thai massage isn't exactly relaxing or suited for everyone. The gentle and smooth oily strokes of the Ayurvedic massage offer a very different experience, and they balance each other well and it was really fun to learn. Jess is looking forward to experimenting with both styles now, and so is Aidan!

While Jess was practicing, Aidan took a few extra tabla lessons to add to what he learnt in Varanasi. His teacher was talented and very patient and let Aidan come in to practice whenever he wanted. The tabla's unique, brilliant sound combined with it's complex, brain testing technique were too provocative for Aidan and he hopes to buy his own set in Delhi!

After a week Jess finished up her courses, and with loads of valuable new knowledge, and Aidan's brain full of funky Indian rhythm, we're off again. Curious to visit a hill station and witness a bit of the English legacy, we've picked a little place in the mountains called Nainital. Being slightly less strictly Hindu than Haridwar or Rishikesh, the delightful prospect of meat, eggs and beer await us, not to mention some breathtaking scenery!