The visitor centre at Tyne Cot is very simple but very impressive. It shows some of the artifacts recovered from the battlefield, letters from the soldiers on all sides but the most moving part is that a woman's voice reads out the names of the dead and missing as you walk down and trough the centre. The cross of sacrifice  itself sits on top of one of the German bunkers, the wall of which you can see through the bronze wreath on the plinth.

Passchendaele, along with the Somme, sums up the waste of humanity during the First World War. It is only when you see these small, pretty French and Belgium villages now and look at the photos of the same places 90 years ago that you can comprehend what a nightmare it must have been. In many cases all that remained were hastily erected signs to show the location of the local church or town hall. We visited the chateau housing the museum that was rebuilt from Ge...