In the past two days, I have taken:
- a 14 hour bus trip from La Paz to Uyuni
- a 15 hour bus trip back to La Paz from Uyuni
- a 4 hour minibus ride from La Paz to Copacabana
- a 1.5 ferry ride from Copacabana to Isla del Sol
Not recommended. Don't ever do it. So tiring. Thankfully there was an overnight stop over in Copacabana. After two nights in a row on a bus, I slept like a baby.

I wasn't even meant to be staying in Copacabana (Bolivia not Brazil) but as my bus back from Uyuni was late, I missed the last ferry to Isla del Sol. Luckily my hostel were super accommodating and happy to change my booking to the following night. I had arrived in Copacabana and spent about 45 minutes walking around trying to find a ferry to no avail, with my backpack on. I literally walked into the first building labelled hostal and was able to get a room. Copacabana while beautiful actually seems like a bit of a tourist trap. Once I'd walked around for an hour, I felt like I'd seen it all. Apart from their huge church, which is beautiful, there isn't much to see. Unless I wanted to hike off to some ruins which late in the afternoon after much bus travel, I did not. So I got an ice cream, took a walk along 'la playa' and enjoyed the sun. I also managed to find a book exchange so now have two more books to read, yahoo! After repacking my bag (whoa, calm down on the excitement there) I decided it was time for dinner. More quinoa soup, I'm obsessed. Then pumpkin stew and steamed veg. The restaurant was useless even by relaxed South American standards. I had to motion the waiter for everything - the menu, to order, to take my plates away, the bill etc. Luckily the food was good and I wasn't in a rush, so it didn't bother me too much, more amused me.

The next morning it was an early start to hop on the ferry to Isla Del Sol. I rang the bell of the hostal administration to check out and no one came. Brill. So I rang a few more times and a lady came downstairs looking pissed off. Apparently I was just meant to leave my room key on the desk as a way of checking out. No worries, but maybe stick up a sign saying that? After a mediocre breakfast - well at least it was eggs and not bread and jam, I queued up for the ferry. Cue spitting. Thankfully I'd had the sense to put the rain cover over my backpack, but not quite enough sense to put on my rain coat. Somehow I manage this manoeuvre, backpack and all. And not a moment too soon, as it starts pissing down with rain.

The ferry was cramped and wet but the gentle waves still rock me to sleep. I wake up to amazing views of Lake Titicaca and Isla del Sol. At the south port I hop off and now face the challenge of finding my hostel. The booking instructions say "take a bus to Copacabana, a ferry to south port of Isla del Sol and just up the stairs". They should perhaps mention these are not just stairs. This is a proper hike up steep stairs at altitude. I see lots of hostels from the shore but not Inka Pacha. Hmmm... I decide the only way is up as there is f*** all on the shore, plus the instructions did say up the stairs. The only positive thing I can say about climbing the stairs is, it's good practice for Machu Picchu. I get to the top of the stairs and realise there's nothing there except a choice of left or right continuing upwards. I go left seeing as this is where most of the hostels seem to be. 20 minutes later, tired and a lot higher up, still no sighting of the hostel. I ask someone where Inka Pacha is and they point to the right. Grrrrrreat. Back down I go and this time take the right path. I reach a bunch of hostels, shops and restaurants but still no Inka Pacha. I ask again and they point up to a little blue and white building far up. When I arrived on Isla del Sol, it was pretty cold but by now the sun is out in full force and with my four layers of clothing plus backpack, I'm sweaty and hot. I take off two layers and feel immediate relief. Finally I brace myself to keep going up and promise myself I won't stop til I get to my hostel. Make it, check in and promptly lie down for a siesta.

After a half an hour siesta, I sort my s*** out, hanging up all wet things to dry and decide to head out to explore the island. Isla del Sol is the most real place I've been, in that electricity and gas are fairly new (and often don't work) and there are no vehicles, everything is done by walking. This is really great and I fully appreciate this experience - the air feels fresh, probably the freshest I've ever breathed, but the lack of roads means it is far too easy to get lost. After an hour and a half of walking towards the north of the island, I turn back towards "home". At first I do well in retracing my steps, but I soon finds self walking a path I don't recognise. I end up really lost to the point of scaling rock walls thinking there's a path behind, waking through many fields and hoping like hell I'll see someone to ask for directions. Eventually I end up at some houses and I hear talking. Jackpot! Unfortunately their dog hears me coming before I can announce myself and it's all over me, barking like mad. I don't blame the dog, it was doing its job after all, but it was scary! And now I have a hell of a bruise where it jumped all over me. A topless middle aged lady calls the dog off seeing my distress and then I realise I don't know how to say I'm lost. Bit of an actual disaster! Anyhow I can say I don't know where I am an that I want to go the the south port. She is lovely and points me in the right direction. After 45 minutes of stumbling round fields and back gardens, a proper path is an exciting sight.

Instead of going back to the hostel, I decide to trek down to the shore and buy my ferry ticket for the next morning. I arrive at the ticket office, ask fully in Spanish for a ticket back to Copacabana and then am informed I can't buy one until tomorrow. b*****! Not being able to face the walk back up right away, I sit on the shore and just stare out at Lake Titicaca. It's truly beautiful.

Sitting on the shore turns out to be a great decision as I meet a lovely English guy, Jack, who is also travelling alone. We sit and chat for ages before Jack wants to do a bit of exploring. I've recovered by this time and tag along. Thankfully this time there is no getting lost, even if we do end up taking a different path back. On our trek we bump into animals, donkeys, sheep, dogs, llamas, pigs everywhere. We stop for a cafe con leche on our way back at this really cute little restaurant. After caffeine, it's time to seek out dinner. We head down towards the shore but everything down there is pretty much closed, so back up we go. We end up finding this lovely restaurant run by a family and the food is excellent. For the third night in a row, I have quinoa and vegetable soup, pleased to introduce Jack to its greatness. At dinner I teach Jack some Spanish and write down some useful phrases. I actually know a lot more than I think I do, although very basic. By the time we finish eating, it's really bloody dark and I'm glad that my hostel is about two minutes away.

Having made plans to meet for breakfast and catch the ferry back to Copacabana together, I get up early. I don't bother with a shower because first, I can't be bothered and two, it's a cold shower, which in this cold and rainy weather is the last thing I want. I go to leave and realise I haven't paid. I tried when I checked it, but she wouldn't let me. The receptionist is nowhere to be seen, so I decide to leave a note saying I have left with the money. Only I don't have the right change, not even close. I knock on the door of her family's room and she says she'll be right out. Right out actually meant 10 minutes later. Then she tries to tell me I'm not paying enough because I'm paying for me and my three friends. No matter how many times I say I'm here alone, she doesn't believe me. Eventually I take her up to my room, so she can see it is a single. She motions at the door across the hallway, saying "tus amigas" and I explain to her that I don't know them and I am alone. It finally seems to sink in and I am able to check out. This all took place in Spanish I might add.

Having rained overnight, the steps/paths are slippery and muddy. After carefully walking down to the shore, only stacking it once, I meet Jack for breakfast. Having woken up feeling a bit funny, I struggle to finish my coffee and omelette. If this feeling continues I may actually have a use for all those drugs (legal ones!) I brought with me.

Ferry time. This time it's not raining which makes for a much nicer ride. Back in Copacabana, I have an hour before my bus so Jack and I sit at a cafe for his second breakfast. I have a homemade lemonade which seems to quell my nausea.

Then all too soon it's time to bid jack farewell and hop on the bus to Peru!

Things I packed that I finally have a use for:
1 Beanie and mittens.
2 Thermals.
3 Hiking boots.