Wow talk about corruption..... I don't know who or which side it really is but man trying to leave Laos and enter Cambodia was fully of little extras. Firstly we had to pay the kind man and extra $2 to stamp our passports to let us out of Laos which although we argued ment we weren't getting our passports back until we paid. Then apperently we have to go through quarentine have our temperature zapped which doesn't actually tell you your temperature it just goes green, fill out a form and pay an extra $1 for this privallage again if you don't they keep your passport. We argued this saying we had our vaccinations and were of good health, and we won I think we could of walked pass. Then to get our Visa to Cambodia which cost $20 we had to pay three nice men $1 each to stamp the visa, luckily we had our own photos so they couldn't charge more. All I can say is they do stamp your book very neatly, I think I may take this job up. But we weren't finished just yet oh no the man stamping our exit forms (yep we haven't even left Cambodia and they want to stamp us some more!!) wanted another $1. Again they missed counted and we escaped a dollar, victory to us. We tried to argue everytime but they just held your passport until you paid, which at one point I actually didn't have anymore money so good job the others did. We also asked for reciepts and guess what "no have"!! It was still cheaper at $27 to pay the corruption than buy one inadvance as you still would have to pay.

This was an experience and we were still luckily we argued some, some people go really screwed over for not having their departure forms. We were use to Laos time so wasn't suprised when are bus was running really behind schedule, of course we couldn't leave the border without making sure our bus was full including the plastic seats!!!

It was pitch black when we arrived in Phnom Pehn, Cambodias capital and a place I have been looking forward too since Reading the book "First they killed my Father". Cambodia has some horrible history that only happened 40yrs ago where the government the Khumer Rough took over saying they would do good for their people, the Angkar would make them a great nation. However this isn't quite what happened instead it starved and killed almost a third of it's population through bizzare thinking. So I was interested to learn more and visit the famous sights in an excited but sadden way. Firstly though we needed to get settled and with no idea of where to go we used the trusty Lonely Planet to choose our hostel. In the common room we meet some Canadians girls (unfortunately they have only increased our desire to venture there more!!) Jo and Alix and spent the evening drinking the local Angkar beer and gossiping, until exhusted from our travels.

In the morning we ventured out into the motorbike full streets in search of some money. We nearly died a few times not quite understanding the road system and the lack of rules. A crazy tuk tuk driver who danced down the streets to get our attention didn't take no for an answer and followed us. We gave in and allowed him to take us to a nice resturant with a nice coffee and view. He dropped by the river and arranged to meet us the next day for a full day of sightseeing and drove off. We soaked up the sun, enjoyed some good food and wondered around the prommande. We had another lazy day knowing the next wouldn't be so relaxing, meeting up with the girls for some dinner and cocktails before calling it a night later than planned.

We all awoke full of energy, fully prepared for our day out we had our specific outfits for certain parts ensure we dressed appropriately for the palace. Savin our driver was waiting egerly outside ready for us, our first stop was too the Tuol Sleng Museum also known as S-21.

S-21 is the secret camp that was previously a secondary school before the Khumer Rough stormed the city driving everyone out and into the working fields. Here they tortured enemies until they had confessions and lists of others who were enemies. These people weren't nesseccary criminals or enemies they were Cambodia people who the Khumer Rough though were against them. They would beat them until they confessesed or died (not that they liked them dying so they would do anything to keep them alive!!) once they confessed and gave at least 50-60names of others then they would kill them anyway. They would take whole families even children or babies, they feared the young would seek revenge so they would be killed too. We walked into the first block- block A, this was where they did the tortuing. Two journalist found the sight, they found 14 bodies that had obviously been killed recently probably as the Vitamense had taken over power of the city and so in each room was a picture on the wall of how they found the bodies. It was very eerie, in some rooms blood was still obvious on the walls. They left the beds, chains and even some torture equipment in each room which were all originals. We walked up the floors and saw other holding chambers, everyone was silent not really knowing how to feel. As you walked back into the court yard we saw the 14 graves for the victims that were found, many more bodies had been buried here but in mass graves. I still can't decided if these victims were lucky to have true burials, but more confused why bury them here were they had suffered. They were buried next to the gallows that unlike normal were used to hang the victims by their arms and feet and dip them into dirty water.

The next section of buildings was one of the most disturbing for memat the time. Every prisioners that arrived, which was by the truck load sometimes carrying 100 or so people, each individual was photographed and had a profile report written about them. The Khumer Rough kept all these documents and so as a memory to the lives lost they displayed every photo in the school hall. Their were so many, men, women, children of all ages none looked like criminals but all photoed as if they were. Worse still the guards would also photo their dead bodies as a way of closing their file with their confession. So in some display cases were the pictures of the vicitims alive and then dead. Their bodies were so fraile and starved, you couldn't begin to understand what had happened to them. I found one display case very interesting, it was newspaper clippings and ironically it showed the joy and celebration as the Khumer Rough came to power but with in days the newspapers had changed to show the terror that was unfolding. How quickly their lives had turned around. As you walked among the display cases you felt you must look and appriciate every photo to ensure you gave them all a bit of your saddness.

We continued on to visit block B which was kind of where the holding cells were, on the first floor they had divided the school class rooms into little bricked cells. These cells held the more important individuals or high ranking polictical people.i was shocked to see blood stains still remained on the floors of some of the cells. The second level was divided into wooden cells and on the third floor the school rooms were open spaces but would be filled with 50/60 people all connected by metal bar chains. All the passage ways that connected the school rooms were covered in barbwire to stop any prisoner from escaping or worse trying to commit suicide. We later learnt that prisioners were constantly checked for pens, screws and other things that may have allowed them to kill themselves.

When I walked into the area I never thought an hour wouldnt be enough time, however we still had more to see and not much time left. We decided to take our time though as we had our tuk tuk driver for the day. The finally building was again more display cases, it showed more of the prisioners and sadly some skulls that had been found in the mass graves on site. It also showed you pictures of the high ranking Khumer Rough officials, the guy known as "Duch" was incharge of S-21 and has finally been charged for his part in this horrific place but he only got 35yrs nothing for the lives he ordered dead. There is also a case called case 002 that will try 4 other officials who still deny any lawful doing they believe the soilders misiterprutated their orders. Poi Pot the leader has unfortunately died, but unlike others he murdered he was allowed to die under house arrest which I think was maybe more than he deserved. Again he never showed remorse as he believes he did no wrong and that it was his soilders. We did also learn that their were survivors well 7, I'm not sure how all survived but one was fortunate that his painting of Poi Pot was exceptable and went on to continue painting his picture. He was lucky as many previous painters had not been so successful.

We had finally finished our tour of the museum, although extremely saddening I had found it so interesting. Again I was excited to continue this culture and head to the Killing Fields so we jumped back into our overly happy drivers tuk tuk and speed off out of the city. Choeung Ek wasnt far out of the city really only 15km, but the lifestyle was very different as we drove the streets passing slum areas and the more industrial side to Cambodia.

We reached the entrance, and again we were given an hour to wonder around. The first thing that greets you as you enter the museum is a huge white tower monument called the stupa, it looks similar to a temple and as you approach it has that vibe. It has incent sticks outside burning sweet smells as well as offerings of flowers. You do the respectful thing and remove your shoes before entering the tower. Inside there isn't room to move as it becomes obvious what the tower contains. The skeleton remains of hundreds of exicuted Cambodians. On the bottom shelf contains clothing that was found in one of the mass graves. Above this are 15 shelves containing skulls from all types of people, some 60yrs old ladies to children and even babies. Unfortunately they can not be pieced together and have to remain without their bodies due to the number of bodies found in each grave site. Further up the body parts are shelved. It has an eeire feelig to see all these skulls with their empty faces, knowing that most had been innocent victims of a political distarster gone wrong. We continued to wondering through the open space Reading the signs, lots of the original buildings and even a truck had been removed. I'm not sure why but knowning that the Cambodian government had already sold this land to Japan for next to nothing I asume they sold it for a quick buck. We read that they used knives or hammers to kill the victims, normally hitting them over the head to make them unconcious before slicing their throat and throwing their bodies in the pit. Well they didn't want to waste precious bullets, plus that was noisy. They would tip chemicals over the pit to kill any that may have still been alive and also to hide the smell, they didn't want to alarm the others they may try to fight back. The soilders would lie and say they were being transported to another prison. It was horrific, as you walked around areas were cornered off as the weather was washing the top soil away and uncovering clothing and bones. In one grave they found 400 bodies, and in another 200 children bodies. Next to this grave was a tree where they smacked the babies skulls against, I don't know how people could do this. It was scary to read that 8000 bodies had been uncovered so far and only half the area had been exervated. Who knows how many more bodies will be found. Time had flown by again so we headed to the indoor museum where all White tourist were hiding from the blistering sun and again learnt about case 002. However our time was up so we jumped into our tuk tuk and speed off through the dusty streets back to the city to pick up our Canadian friends for some light heart fun from our deep morning of culture.

We had been running a little late but there they were waiting patiently. So with Jo and Alix we speed off for the highlight of the day and quite possibly Cambodia and South East Asia gun shooting. Not just little guns in a restricted area oh no not in Cambodia, unfortunately all those bullets that were saved are now being exploted to tourist willing to spend a lot of money to fire the big boys. We zoomed off in the opposite direction out of the city, speeding pass all sorts being carried delicately on their motorbikes. We took some back passage ways and finally arrived at our secret bunker. Two huge decommisioned tanks lay ahead of us, shame they weren't working I would pay to fire this. Inside Cambodian milatary people sat around smoking, drinking watching rubbish tv surrounded by all sorts of fire arms. I was shocked it was like in a computer game, I had never seen guns like this unless on telly. We sat down and was passed the menu, just like in a resturant. I was just thinking I was getting thirsty and hungry it was pass lunchtime and could have a quick bite to eat. However this was no ordinary menu, this was the gun cataloge. Yes each page had a different gun, a picture and a small discription explaining the price and how many bullets you got. Everyone laughed a nervous laugh, we showed our innocents and couldn't believe what was before us. They had little revolvers, shot guns, AK-47's, M16's, grenades, automatic machine guns and even a bazooka. There was so much choice, for once money was no object. We asked the important question how much would it cost to shoot a cow, $1000 was the yes you can but sssshh it's not really allowed. A little out my price range with a $300 bazooka so Alix and I stuck with the $40 AK-47's but I really did like the automatic machine guns. Hana chose her wild west spinning revolver and Rach went with the Shotgun. They collected our weapons of choice and lead us to the shooting range, the guns we had chosen could be fired in the bunker an enclosed corridor with targets attached to sand bags at the far end. I would of loved to have gone outside into the field, feel more real. Alix stepped up first, I didn't want my time to be over just yet I was so excited like a kid at Christmas. We were given ear muffs and stared waiting as the gun was placed in the wooden holder (stop it spinning around, these were real bullets!!), we waited and waited as she lined up the killer shoot...... BANG a deafing bang passed through us all making a few girly screams and setting me off with huge grin. She had missed but there was still another 24 bullets to go. She continued with the single shoots until she got the hand of it, i mean she started hitting the target, then the guy switched it to automatic and she was let loose to finish up the remaining bullets.

It was now my turn, and I couldn't hold in my excitement. I couldn't believe I was about to fire a gun used in modern wars today. I was given my Cambodian army jackets to look the part and sat down next to my AK. The click of the bullet magazine change indicated I was ready to place my hand firmly on the barrel with my finger on the trigger. I moved my shoulder in to support and lowered my head to line up my shoot. It took me time to adjust my shot, I imagined what it would be like to be staring down this barrel at a person running toward you with a gun and appricated the skill involved but also the braveness. When I thought I was ready and after some panicking it would hit me in the eye I pulled the trigger..... BANG. Wow the power, the thrill, it was awesome I hit my target first time and couldn't wait to go again and again. The sound was intense and I had ear covers on, I wanted to try without to get closer to reality but realised this was the beauty of this it was safe. I couldn't wait to try the automatic which as I pulled the trigger just went crazy, I had no control I think I even closed my eyes as I shot and hoped. It was by far an unreal experience and one I will never forget. On the floor were my discarded shells, and of course I couldn't leave without one of my bullets. I was passed my target sheets and i was pleased to see hit the target oftern and with some killer shoots to the head. It was Hana's time next, so I passed over the jacket and she walled closer to the target was passed her wild west gun and took up the typical stance, stood with her arms extended looking directly at her target. She aimed and shoot, a puff of smoke flew as the bullet left the gun heading for the sand bags. The noise was as defining but the shooting was more realistic, Hana smiled like a Cheshire cat as she prepared for her next shot. BANG!!!! Another miss but it wasn't about hitting anything it was she the power of shooting this a weapon, a killing machine. She continued until it was empty, picking up a spent case too for the souviner. Then the shotgun came out and it was Rachey's turn, she too was stood passed the large gun told to place it high into her shoulder hosing the barrel firmly. A quick pull back as she loads the weapon, very drug mob like noise. Then with our instructor holding her shoulder the countdown began 3,2,1 BANG!!!! And then Rachey collapses in laughter, is she ok we look and it's a nervous laughter that shows she was shocked but the ultimate power of the recoil in the shotgun. It is too much and decides to pass on the remaining bullets to us, I waste no time stepping up for a go. I'm gutted mine is over and want to play more, I take hold and love the reloading process as I try to line up the shoot.... BANG!! The gun flies up into the air, wow the power needed to hold it steady it fires back and up into your shoulder that you can not focus on where you were trying to shoot. However my eyes light up and I begin to smile again, I have another go before passing it on to the others too have a go. With our male testostrone spent we pick up things and head back to our tuk tuk trying to think can this day get much better!! They try to convince me to shoot the automatic machine guns but I resist I don't know how but I am a firm believer of keep your memories of single amazing things not of lots and lots.

We begin to realise that we haven't eaten all day and it is nearly 3pm, so cheekily we ask our tuk tuk driver to take us to a fitting place for after shooting meal.... KFC!!!! it went down a treat as we reflect on the last hour of our life. We still had more to do though so back to the city we venture to the Palace. As we walking in to our disappointment we realise the Palace is closed for official buisness and being a little over priced (compared to other attractions) we chose not to visit but walk around the edge in the hope we find our driver to take us elsewhere. We do and truffle off to central Market but we are all tired from our emotionally draining day that we head back to the hostel after buying a few tacky watches for nothing.

After a little rest we headed downstairs to watch a documentary called S-21, an interesting acount of life by two surviours captured and held in S-21, who asked and question soilders who worked there. It was so interesting to hear it from the otherside and sad to hear that everyone suffered during these times and that these men who were boys back then have to live with the memories of what they did. If anyone wants to understand what happened in Cambodia watch this and realise we are lucky to live the life we all have and pray it never happens in England. Still tired though we watched the thunderstorm that had swapped the city from the roof top, cracking lightening brightening the darken skies raining pouring until it unfortunately swept through the hostel soaking the Canadian girls room and belongings. We were going our seperate ways in the morning so we said our goodbyes but with the promise if we head to Canada to meet up again to show off their middle of nowhere town!!!