On Saturday, the 25th we flew from Lima to Panama City after the briefest of stopovers in Bogota, Colombia (sadly no immigration stamp). Our home for the next few days was to be the infamous Luna´s Castle, a traveller´s favourite, a converted colonial mansion located in Casco Viejo. the city´s old town with impressive views across the bay to the skyscrapers of the new city. Our arrival, and subsequent stay in the city was not without incident. Firstly, our reservation for Luna´s had been mislaid, it later turned out a ´fresher´had buried it under a mound of paperwork. Faced with the prospect of traipsing around the city at 1.30am we almost snapped the arm that offered us a free night´s stay in the hostel´s ´theatre´ (a rather impressive tiered dvd lounge, with comfy mattresses). After exploring the old town, which showed all the characteristics of a rough, Western-light area with knock off adidas and so on, we took a taxi to the Miraflores locks for a view of Panama´s most famous landmark. The canal truly is an impressive structure, allowing ships to sail from the Atlantic to Pacific coast in some 8-10 hours. Originally construction commencement had been undertaken by the French, whose expedition was fraught with difficulties, most of all chlorea and the work was subsequently taken over by the Americans, who completed the endeavour in 1913. It was not until 1999 however that Panama gained control of the waterway and the financial benefits it reaps are astronomical, the largest ships paying the princely sum of around $400,000 for the trip. With work underway on a 3rd set of locks to increase traffic flow and it seems Panama has a tidy cash pinata to aid the nation´s development. The local food too is delicious - for a dollar you could pick up a pot of cerviche on the quayside, a sort of pickled combo of prawns, calamari and tuna, and tasted excellent - that coming from someone whose intake of seafood is of the battered variety with chips.

From Panama City it was on to Bocas Del Toro, a series of island jewels in Panama´s crown on the Caribbean side of the isthmus. After hearing so many good things, it was amazing that we were not left disappointed. Our hostel, the appropriately named Aqua Lounge, was built on stilts on the Isle Carnero, some 200m off the main island Colon, where the vast majority of hostels, supermarkets and other amenities are located. Whilst this meant we succumbed to the $1 water taxi fare (taxis consisting of a series of boats that zip`around the islands), nowhere else could boast the opportunity to get out of bed and dive into the sea. The group of people we encountered here should not go without mention, it was they that contributed to the fun of the place, be it from day trips to Wizard Beach, (pristine, and we had it to ourselves), to the nights out which were just as enjoyable, and you could see why so many find it hard to leave. I should mention at this point several rare feats of athleticism were also taken during our time in Bocas. Danny O´Brien showed an athletic finesse on the Beer Pong table, so far removed from his brashness and power on the rugby pitch, that one successful behind the back shot was described as 'the best I have seen'. High praise considering it came from an American. The afore mentioned Bocas channel also was a challenge waiting to be taken. And so it was on the 30th June, a group of brave young men, with yours truly on a bright yellow lilo (swimming has never been my forte), endeavoured the waves, the weather and the doubters and made it across the expansive stretch of 200m....... straight into the backyard of the Police station.....who weren´t best pleaaed, and put us into a water taxi for the return journey where we were celebrated as heroes. There was talk of a commerative plaque but i doubt it will come to fruition. Sadly after 3 days it was time to move on, although by all accounts, several aquiantances will be re-made on the American leg of our journey, with various offers of free accomodation and tours of towns forthcoming. Excellent. It was with 2 Aqua Lounge residents, Tyler and Chris, twins from Seattle, that we made our way to San Jose, and possibly the bizarrest border crossing going (other than the Pakistani-India border with the goose stepping and flag furling). The Panamanian - Costa Rican border is separated by a river which a quick (ie. painfully slow internet) google map search refuses to name. Traversing this is a former railway bridge, with creaking wooden boards, and broken slats which must be traversed from one customs office to the other. It would be offensive to Alec McGuinness to compare it to that over the River Kwai, but there is something quite surreal about crossing amidst a tropical storm, laden with bags, whilst locals laden with wares, skip ahead in front of you. Hopefully the next 7 weeks on our Raleigh Expedition in Costa Rica and Nicaragua will also provide such cultural gems. Until then, adios.