25/08

Hi Everyone,

I met my next crew at 8.30 sharp, I only knew Suzi from the hostel on this bus the remaining girls were all new to me. Our guide and driver was Rex, who was full of stories and anecdotes, a really great character and a joy to be with. You know how it is when someone tells you a story or two but you pick up on other bits which although unsaid, tell you a lot more, well Rex is like that. I just formed the impression that there was a lot more to this man than he was saying and so it proved to be. But more on that later.

We picked up four more girls, Meagane and Julie both from Canada, and Manuela and Claudia both from Germany. Five girls all 21 years of age, Rex and Me! We were on a 12 seater bus and the whole experience changed and became much more personal and rewarding, for a start Rex didn't have to shout at us and we were right up there with him and not 20 odd rows behind. it was far more what I wnated out of the trip. We were taken off the beaten track, down back roads, through massive forests we would otherwise have missed and through fabulous scenery. Rex did this because he knew the routes through and didn't have to stick to the set agenda or main roads. It was far better.

Our first night was spent at Te Kaha and a small lodge which was formerly a petrol station and a local grocery store. This was the case until the owners told their son Paul that they were going to sell up and move. Paul persuaded his parents to let him turn the premises into a hostel, place a hot tub on the rocks at the bottom of their garden and then provide open house for all the visitors. Having spoken to Mum, it was obviously a very difficult decision to make but they now enjoy having visitors from all over the World in an incredible location. The Hostel is on the east coast penninsular with a garden which goes down to the Pacific and views round the bay, see the photo. From the hot tub it is possible to watch the sun set over the ocean and see White Island and Whales on clear days. White island is an active volcano and gently steams away in the distance.

Paul, AKA Che, greeted us in the traditional Maori way and then welcomed us to his tribe. He then set about teaching us grubby little ditties which made me laugh and no doubt baffled the heck out of the German girls.! We were supposed to be occupyinmg one six bed dorm but I thought better of causing too much embarrassment for the girls and Paul kindly let me have a room to myself. the girls all went off to bed and I stayed up with Paul and one of his mate talking until the early hours about all sorts of things including a female model who had stayed at the hostel last year and then appeared in a famous mens magazine. One of Pauls friends had apparently recognised her (likely story) and shown him the centre pages. She was quite impressive, nice smile I have to say!

26/08

We moved on from Te Kaha en-route to East Cape which would move us closer to the point where we would be the first in the World to see the sunrise of the new day from land. We stayed at an old ranch where there is still active sheep farming in the middle of no-where. The set up was very simple but effective, about four small private bunk rooms for small groups, one 8 person dorm for girls and one for boys. Of course I had one room to myself.

Rex had been preparing us for we were to do the next day. We are being honoured by visiting the Marea, sacred house, which was used in the film called The Whalerider. This is very special because under normal circumstances only people with connections to the tribe or via relatives or community connection would be able to access the Marea. In preparation for this Rex has been teaching us a Maori song, in Maori, which we are to perform infront of our host on the day.If this sounds a bit corny I can assure that it is actually very important as Maori custom dictates that you are invited into a sacred place with song and you reply in song. You also make an acceptance speach and give account of yourself. for example , which tribe you are from, what is your sacred river etc, well that was easy, it's the Colne!

Afetr arriving at the Ranch 2 of the girls went horse riding, I guess that I needn't add that I gave it a miss! Instead I went bone carving, under the close supervision of Kizzy, joint owner (little punn) of the homestead. Two unsettling things happened whilst I was there, first I found out that the place was called Eastenders! , then I discovered that the design I had chosen to carve (I use that term lossely) is supposed to be worn next to the skin and then given to the one you intend to marry! little question here. What happensif you mass produce these things?

That night my girls, I only did one carving by the way, threw together a great meal after which we had song practice! and then settlerd down to watch Whale Rder, my second time. Its quite a tame film but I have to admit that it takes on a bit more meaning once you begin to understand the Maori history and some of their culture and traditions. i wrote my little speach, went over the words to Pokerikeri Ana, a million times and went to bed.

My next duty was to get the girls up for the sunrise at 6.15am if it was clear, in order that we could climb a nearvby hill to watch it happen .I did get up but it was heavily overcast so the girls got a lay in.

We left Rangitukia and headed for Takakouri. it was a nice day travelling through very remote countryside and following the coast with gently swelling hills and with tiumbling cliffs, open farm fields with lush vegitation and wild bush.

The shores are rich in marine life like whales, dolphins, sharks, sting rays,and game fish all common around these shores. I moved Rex's conversation onto Mussels, being a fan moules I thought it only proper to have green shelled mussels in their owen back yard so to speak.I was in for a treat albeit I didn't know it yet .

Before we went to our destination we were taken to the Marea. The building is very ornate with carvings of tribal ancestors around the front entrance and all over the inside walls. There are strict proceedures which must be follwoed to enter the Marea, failure to do so could result in one tribe attacking the other. taking into account that our 'tribe' only consisted of five 21 year old girls, Rex and Me, I thought it best to go along with it all. Did you know that when a Maori warrior sticks his tongue out at you he is telling you that he's going to enjoy eating your flesh?Think about that the next time you are watching the All Blacks doing the Haka.

The marea leader, Ann, sang us to the entrance, we paused as instructed by Rex, looked at the surrounding carvings to pay respects, and then waited for the traditional invitation to enter. Women go first, followed by the men, then once inside, women sit at the back whilst the men sit at the front. This is all done to protect the women from attach and injury. The Leader then welcomes you and passes the 'speaking stick' to the Visiting Leader to state his purpose, one wrong word and we've had it. I had prepared a respectful and polite speach which apparently went down well and then at my signeal the rest of the Tribe roase and we sang our little dittie to the Marea.

i was actually surprised that Ann was visibly moved. it was great. Sghe had probably done this a million times before , but singing in Maori obviously sent the right message and we were treated as one of the family. Formalities over with, you then sit opposite one another and have a conversation across the room, one at a time . Ann then talked us through the Marea's history and how the film came to be made. We were taken to the next door building which was the original Marea built in the 1800's but is now too small for its purpose. it was a great wexperience and I am so glad that Rex took the timke to teach us the siong and that we had bothered to learn it in Maori. To see Ann's reaction was worth it all.

That evening we were at a Dive Centre run by Dean who is involved with marine photography and other activities involving sharks and other fearsome life forms. they also run the hostel which has several building and we occupied one of the premises across the road, with its own lounge, kitchen and bthrooms. the weather had deteriorated again and the temperature dropped severely as the wind picked up to gale force. We were supposed to be having a BBQ but actually when we went across the road to the main area we were treated to three platters of mussels in the shells folowed by a full roast lamb dinner. Marvellous! it was truly lovely, the mussels were absolutely fantasdtic and Rex and I made complete pigs of ourselves but they had to be eaten and the girls had had thier fill!

Afterwards we retired to the lounge area where we were entertained with stories about theMaori and Rex. I said before that there was something else about this man, well it turns out that he has been a racing driver, a pilot, a sheppard, owns land and has been in and around this area all his life. He is one of lifes' characters and very modest about it all, a true gent if ever I have met one.

28/08

My Birthday. i decided to get up an watch the day break and the sunrise if that was possible. As it happened the day started very overcast but i did watch the dawn break and Rex got up and took a picture to capture the moment. I have worked out that this will be my longest birthday because this is the farthest point of land you can stand on to greet the new day and being 11 hours aherad of the UK that means that I can have a 36 hour birthday because I'm British and I intend to keep going until 12 mid-night British time! Made sense to me!!

We headed off to Taupo via Gisborne and had a fabulously different day as we were driven across country via lakes, mountains, dams and natural and manmade bush. We made good time at the hands of Fangio, and were treated to a swim or a dip in a hot river. Considering that the morning had been cold and overcast, the afternoon was sunny and,well, warmer. we arrived at a spot about 10 k outside Taupo where a river runs over hot sand and has water fed into it from hot thermal springs. It's most bizzare. We put on swimming cossies and jumped into the river with a small waterfall.Its like getting into a hot bath. The only thing that kept it coll enough to do this was the fact that it had been raining on the previous days, otherwise we would not have been able to stay in it for so long. it was plenty hot enough and non of us wanted to get out. The water does have a slight smell of sulphur about it but it is facinating. you can dig your feet int to the sand and it is like having your joints wrapped in a hot compress, some parts are hotter than othersso you can pick which temperature is right for you. it was great fun but we had to get out at some point. Although it was still sunny, it is also still winter and the change in temperature soon had us dressed and back in the vehicle for the final stages of our little journet together,.

The girls had very kindly got together and bought me a birthday card and pie! An aplle pie with 21 candles on top, well at least they got that bit right! i had decided that we needed some proper birthday cake , so at one of our earlier stops I had found a bakery and bought enough pieces of carrott cake for everyone and an extrsa piece for Rex to have with his coffee the next day. We went to our last stop which was a hot mud pool, so we all stood around eating cake and accosted an unsususpecting passer by and got them to take photos for us using each and every one of our cameras. Poor people, they must have been well and truly hacked off when they realised they had to take six pictures not just one.

We now had a short journey into Taupo and the end of our time together. Only the Canadian girld and me were staying as the others were off the rotorua with Rex. I was staying at the Base hostel again and arranged for Meg and Julies bags to left in the secure room there whilst they wee waiting for their connecting bus to Auckland later thsat night.We met up for supper and to my great surprisde they treated me1 We then spent the remainder of the evening in one of the bars chattuing and having a real laugh, they were really great girls on a fabulous trip. The eveing rounded off a memorable birthday and thanks to all who sent me messages, to those who didn't (and you know who you are) well there is always next year!.

the following day was to be a days break from touring around, so what to do with myself, I also owe myself a pressie, Sky Diving looks good!

See you,

Chris