We felt filthy and exhausted after the sleeper bus from Jaipur. Hair and bodily cleanliness was beyond repair. I was even considering changing into a sari, at least that would cover everything up! The Durag Niwas Guesthouse were very welcoming and kindly let us rest on their sofas when we appeared half alive at their doorstep at 5 in the morning. The rooms were beautiful. The hotel was full of French volunteering in the attached NGO teaching English! They lived up to their reputation as the friendliest of travellers!! The best thing about the Durag Niwas Guest House was the presence of women! I hadn't seen one doing any kind of work for a very long time and it was great to stay at a place where women are considered able beings.
The Merherengah Fort wasn't beautiful but it was impressive. For me, the audio guides spoilt the magic. Next time, I'd opt for the zip wire tour. There was a lot to explore and some fantastic views down onto the blue city below. The best views were ito be had n the private 'Audio Lounge' away from the crowds. We walked down from the fort into the blue streets. In the tight and crowded streets of Jodhpur, we were surrounded by the amazing sights, smells and spice of day to day life in Rajasthan. We ate lunch in a temple turned restaurant called Nirvand, with a view across to the Clock Tower. We watched children flying their kites from the rooftops and listened to the Muslim call to prayer. The Thali was a good choice. There was definitely a storm brewing, so we headed back to the guesthouse.  
The best part of our stay in Jodhpur was a visit to Mandore Gardens, recommended by the man who eventually sold us an elephant patchwork. The gardens were a hidden gem, with a stunning collection of little temples, butterflies, birdsong and beautiful leaping monkies. It was lovely to escape the hustle and bustle.