Monday 8th July - Glenn's BD

After leaving Litchfield the obvious smouldering fires were everywhere. They were only low grass fires and had been controlled by back burning but the light smoke was still hanging around at ground level. When we had phone reception we booked a 4 hour cruise at Katherine Gorge. Chris and Roger had done this previously and said it was well worth it. We were following the trainline again so I check the Ghan timetable; it was arriving in Katherine the following morning at 9.00am. Glenn was wrapped!

We passed another caravan that had disintegrated on the side of the road. There were a number of cars pulled up and a young woman standing amongst the wreckage. There was no evidence of where the chassis was and we can only assume it had been taken away. Talking to some people later we found out that the accident had happened the previous day. The wind was quite strong and it appears the van has lost control on a crest, started to sway and jack knifed after hitting the gravel. Caravans are so fragile and you need to be concentrating at all times.

About 15km form Katherine we turned off to have a look at Edith Falls. It was very different from what Chris and Roger remembered and after talking to a local it was discovered that after the last floods the landscape and plunge pool area were altered dramatically. There was now a smaller waterfall in a new spot and an island of sandy gravel in the middle! The pool was still freezing and we didn't go in!

The caravan park, Riverview is very nice with the Katherine Hot Springs just a short walk at the rear. I had put a load of washing on before we headed out to do a bit of shopping at Woolies, which was packed and it was only Monday. The lady in front of us worked on a station 700km south west of Katherine just inside the NT border. Her "small" shop cost over $700. All the registers were 5 deep with shoppers and when we put our $30 through the lady serving us said she would be "glad when the wet season came and we all pissed off!" obviously she was feeling the pressure of the tourist season.

We went down to the hot springs (where I got in straight away!) and had a lovely 2 hour soak. It was a humid evening so before bed we had a cool shower. Still tossed and turned in the heat, ended up spread eagle!

The following day we headed out to see the Ghan arrive. We need to be at least 1/2hr early as it often doesn't run on time. We first saw its lights about 8.40am at the head of the line but it still took 20mins to get into the station. Glenn videoed its whole arrival all 29 carriages! I asked "information" if they did tours of the train while it had its 4hr stopover. The lady didn't think so but pointed a gentleman out to me suggesting that if I asked him he might agree to take us on board. I followed up with "Sam" and he agreed to give us a quick tour; Glenn was beside himself when I told him what I had arranged! Happy Birthday!! We were walked through one of the "Gold" cars sleeping compartments (although we couldn't look in one because they were all occupied), through to the lounge and then the Queen Adelaide dining car. It was all very grand! Sam was happy to spend another 20minutes while Glenn quizzed in on all the ins and outs. After taking a few more photos we called into town to pick up our tickets and receipt for the gorge cruise for the following morning.

After a quick breakfast we headed out to do the gorge rim walk to get a different view of the river. It was hard slog, all uphill obviously. There was a platform up at the top for photos which was great. Coming back down we took the stairs to the bank and walked back that way which was easy in the soft sand. The bats were very prevalent in the trees making plenty of racket. I took a video of them while they were opening and closing their wings trying to keep cool.

We had an early start for the gorge cruise as we needed to be at the departure point at 8.45am. There were about 56 people on board and the cruise would take 4 hrs. This one was a bit different to the one we did in Kakadu because we were to see fresh water crocodiles this time. Ben our guide didn't expect to see any until we were heading back as the water is too cold first thing in the morning. But by midday they should be seen on the sandy shores. The river level is at its lowest at this time of the year and there were a few rocks just below the surface that needed to be negotiated around. Ben pointed out the normal water level during the wet season and it's really hard to comprehend that amount of water thundering through this area. You can see debris caught in the trees and shrubs lining the shoreline at about 15metres above the current water level. Everything below this level is also covered in grey fine silt. We did get to see a few fresh water crocs but they were much smaller in comparison to their salty cousins.

Chris and Roger have collect their little dog Crystal from some friends who were travelling to Katherine around the same time we were heading up through the middle. They have all gone out together as a thank you while Glenn and I have just had a lovely meal at Barra's Café. It's my 4th piece of Barramundi and I haven't been disappointed once.

The first test is on now so I am sitting up in bed typing my blog, sipping my wine and cheering on the Aussies.

Tomorrow we head towards the W.A. border. It should take us two nights and at this stage we haven't decided if we will try and stay in Kununurra as we believe this weekend is their "Show" so getting into a caravan park is going to be tricky.

Thinking of you all, Virginia and Glenn