We were hoping to catch up with Phil, Krys, Marion and Sharon in Katherine but the only info we had from them was that they were staying somewhere 7km outside of Katherine. We gambled that they might be at a spot 9km south west at a place called Mambulloo as we couldn't see anything on our maps indicating anything else out the other way. When we arrived there and asked if they were booked in the lady hadn't heard of them. We explained that they were camped somewhere 7km from Katherine and she told us there was another place the other side of town. Instead of driving back across town we decided to stay the night here a there was plenty of shade. We had left text messages for Phil but it wasn't until he returned to his car where he left his phone that he confirmed we were at opposite ends of town. They had plans and were leaving Katherine the following day to head to Litchfield as we were heading to Kakadu so we agreed to keep in touch and catchup another time, possibly in Darwin.

We left our campsite about 9.10am to refuel, 117148, 159.9, $187.68, 117.37L. and catchup on some shopping and called into the Information Centre for info and passes in to Kakadu. The lady was very helpful even pointing out the front page of the paper the previous week which had a picture of a very big crocodile found in the river, in the town. OMG, Chris and I had been walking down by the river the previous evening taking photos, we were very aware of the need to be on the lookout for crocodiles. When we were heading down to the river we asked directions and about crocodiles from a chap sitting outside his cabin, he told us to be careful "you're in the territory" he said twice. I thought he was just trying to scare us!!

With Info in head we headed off to Kakadu. It was decided that we should pull off for lunch at 12noon and then drive to Mary River to unhook the vans for the drive to Gonlom Waterfall and plunge pools. We decided to take both cars and secured our vans with the towball locks. The lady back at the info centre said that the last 10km was pretty terrible. IT WAS!! We were the lead car so I was CBing back to Chris and Roger about what to look out for in the way of big potholes etc. This area isn't accessible during the wet season and I can see why.

We decided not to do the climb to the top where the plunge pools were at the top of the waterfall as it was a steep climb and probably too difficult for me. Instead we would just go for a swim in the beautiful pool below the falls. When I went to get changed into my bathes I discovered I had grabbed Glenn's rashie by mistake and had to then just sit on the bank and watch the others, Bummer! While watching them you could see the people up the very top in the pool closest to the edge, that looked very scary especially when they insisted on standing close to the edge to get photos!! After walking back from the pool we spoke to a tour guide who was waiting for a family to come back down from the top of the waterfall. He was telling us that the pool area was used in the movie Crocodile Dundee when Mick was spearing fish for dinner! Different areas of Kakadu was used throughout the movie, the rest was shot in New York obviously.

The rough road out wasn't quite as exciting and seemed a lot shorter. We collected the cars from where we left them and headed to our overnight spot. It was a circular bitumen area with drop toilets and hardly anyone there, but it would do for only $10 a night, Gungural. It had been a warm day 34' so it took a while to cool the vans down, we were ok we had nice good drinks! But the mozzies were bad. The Mozzies are the reason for the saying "Kakadu, Kadadon't".

The following morning we headed to our next camping spot which was $20 a night, Malabanjbanjdju. It was a grassy spot with plenty of trees so unhooked the vans between a firepit and headed off for more sightseeing. We tackled the Mirral Lookout. The view was 360' but there had been burnoff happening all around the area and the haze made for poor photos. I did however get a good signal on my phone and was able to answer a few queries from work. This was my first attempted at an uphill climb and I managed pretty well. Coming down was a bit trickier as I have to lead with my non preferred foot all the time. We went back for lunch and the headed out again to Nourlange where there was an easy walk and good aboriginal rock art. After arriving back at our camp again we lit the fire early because the smoke is supposed to help keep the mozzies away. Everyone else was creamed up except me as the mozzies obviously don't like me! We had a yummy Chicken Curry that Chris made and spent the evening swapping and talking to another couple from Victoria, Kevin and Catarine.

We moved on to the top end of Kakadu, Ubirr. The camping area here reminded me of Sues Bridge down south. It had designated bays, solar showers and plenty of shade, $20 a night. We decided not to commit to two nights until we saw what the mozzies were going to be like at night. The plan was to do a Crocodile Cruise on the East Alligator River so we headed out to book our seats at $68 each. We thought the 3pm slot would be best because the sun wouldn't be so high in the sky. After booking we headed back to kill a couple of hours at camp.

We arrived at the cruise reception along with about 24 other people. When the previous cruise docked there was only 1 couple on it so we thought that probably would have been the better one to go on. Luckily our aboriginal guide Robert was a wealth of information. He was born in Kakadu and had been working for the cruise company for 3 ½ years. His ancestors were from Arnhem Land. He first took us down stream to the crossing point between Kakadu and Arnham Land, which you need a permit to cross over. The hightide was rushing upstream from the sea and the crossing was closed. At low tide you can walk across. Robert told us that in 1987 a fellow was fishing on the crossing, fell in and was taken by a crocodile in front of everyone. Robert told us about the significance of the paper bark tree and the native hibiscus and it was while he was talking that we saw our first crocodile floating towards the crossing. It looked like a rubber one so at that stage I wasn't convinced!!

Heading up stream the crocodiles became more obvious, seeing plenty in the river and 2 sunning themselves on the river bank. They varied in size but the bigger ones were about 2metres and about 8 years old. Robert moored the boot against a sandy beach and said that we could get off and have a wander around. This was a great privilege as this side was Arnham Land. There was a great rock to climb over and a billabong that Chris got some nice photos of, not me, I was staying away from the water's edge! Robert sat us all down and told us about some of the tribal laws regarding marriage. This was very interesting. He then did a spear throwing demonstration with his throwing stick and spear. He threw them all into the river with the intention of collecting them on the way back. Good luck with that, I wasn't going to reach in for them!! At the end of the trip we were all grateful to Robert for sharing is country with us.

The following day we had a look around Ubirr and the famous Aboriginal Rock Art. We also went up to a lookout to view the wetland plains stretching across to Arnhem Land. We ran into the ranger from our camp and he was able to tell us a bit more about the area. He pointed out one area across the plains and over a hill and said that there were about 1000 aboriginals living over there. Glenn asked if they were living a traditional lifestyle according to what Robert was telling us the day before. They are, except they all have 4WD's.

We left Kakadu that afternoon and stayed at the Kakadu Info Rest Area, nothing flash, just somewhere to camp the night. We had two young girls traveling from Perth together stop and ask if we were stay, they wouldn't if we weren't. We said that we were so they pulled it near us too. One of them had a ukulele which while she was playing it started a dingo howling. When she stopped so did he, when she started again so did he. The two girls were scared it would attract the dingo to their van so stopped playing altogether.

We were a day too early to get into the caravan park in Darwin so stayed another night out about 35km out along the Stuart Highway at an old air force runway. We had a good cookup of vegetables and BBQ meat. The trucks were on the go all night but in a way it was comforting. The following morning I had a look at the caravan park we were staying at on Wikicamp. The reviews weren't good so I was a bit worried we had booked into a dud. We were in for 4 days and had paid a deposit over the phone so we would just have to see.

See you all later,

Virginia and Glenn