Vern: After an early night, we got an early start for our last day in Buenos Aires. We went to go walk the upmarket neighbourhood of Recoleta to check out the famous cemetery that includes ornate mausoleums and is the site of Evita's grave. We walked across town to get there passing some really nice parks on the way, including the United Nations park in which stood the Flor Generica, a giant mechanical flower sculpture that actually opens at daybreak and closes every night. We followed the crowds to the cemetery and snubbed the guy at the front selling maps of the graves of people of interest for 8 pesos. How hard could it be? The site is enormous and packed wall to wall with mini houses in which to live for all eternity (think the size of a flat that we could afford in Chelsea and you've nailed the size). These were really remarkable: some with stained glass windows, most thick marble, one a full sized statue of the deceased in his bathrobe. Really great. Until we got lost inside for 30 minutes trying to find Evita's grave. Even after peaking at someone else's 8 peso map (not really useful, so we stuck by our decision not to buy) it took us another 10 minutes to find. We found it finally (under the surname 'Duarte' instead of 'Peron' as expected) and it was anti-climactic. We also didn't cry for her, as we had received strict instructions not to. The truth was, she never left us.

A few pictures snapped and we were out of there as an hour is entirely too long to hang out in a cemetery. We spent some time lazing in a park and then realised how hungry we were. We found a restaurant that had a deal of 30% off the entire menu. We walked in and after about five minutes the waitress approached our table and we asked her about this discount. She looked at us like we were crazy and told us it was only for dinner. And then walked away. Since the restaurant was empty and it was closer to 5:00 pm and not 5:00 am, it was obvious it wasn't dinner time. We also observed as she hastily removed the other posters from the windows advertising other specials like the plate of the day. So, with the very rude waitress holding all the potential meal deals in her hands, we left and found another half empty cafe. This waitress laughed when we asked if we could get the lunch menu special (if it's not dinner then it must still be lunch, right?), but did let us get the happy hour special so we tucked into 1 1/2 liters of beer and 2 mini pizzas. We didn't even really want the beer, just the pizzas but it was the best deal in town so we sacrificed and drank the delicious cold brew. We killed a few hours there then back to the hostel.

After a few hours it was time to eat again. This time we figured leaving the hostel at 10:00 would be a reasonable time fir dinner on a Monday night. We got sucked in a nearby restaurant for a 'parilla completa' (complete grill) which was a really good deal. Again, empty restaurant so we officially have no idea when portenos actually eat. We had a lovely waitress who we neglected to ask what the completa entailed. Once again, a delicious sauce was served with the bread, so we ate entirely too much of that before the meat feast. We were however a little disheartened when we heard the distinctive ting of a microwave. That's our food. What followed was a table sized-grill filled with mystery meat of all different kinds, all swimming in oil. We started conservatively with what we knew was chicken and steak and then onto what looked like pork. Then I tried what looked like a giant ball of grilled fat that he promptly spat out again. We gagged when we smelled the remaining meat treasures as we realised they were organs and blood sausage. So we finished the meal sheepishly finishing our salad and trying to ignore the grease covered heart that lay beside us on a mini grill and politely smiling as she cleared our table.