Inca Trail

Day 1

We had a fairly early start to the first day as we were collected at 6AM to meet our group and guides and travel to KM82, the start of the Inca Trail. We were both pretty excited but slightly daunted by what lay ahead. We had heard from other travellers just how difficult it is and the day didn`t get off to the best of starts when I (S) had my first dodgy stomach of the trip. Our group was made up of people touring Peru as well as two other independent travellers from New Zealand. The rest of the group were from the UK, Australia, NZ, Switzerland, USA and Canada so everyone spoke English which was handy. We bought walking sticks and snacks, posed for group photos and then were off. The walk was fairly level with only a few steep uphill sections and the weather was very good for walking. Our guide, Julio, knew so much about the trail and stopped us frequently to point out ruins and plants and to name mountians. We walked 10KM to reach our first campsite at Wayllabamba, overlooking the valley and snow-capped mountains.  During the day the porters rushed past us carrying all of the equipment we needed including tents, gas stoves, tables and portable toilet (poor man). They were so amazing, little did we know how difficult their jobs got when we saw the pass they (and us) had to climb on the second day. We were given the most incredible meals from 2 course lunches and dinners to afternoon tea (how English!).

Day 2

We were given a lie in on the second day and were woken at 7AM with a nice cup of tea! We had an amazing breakfast of pancake, fruit with yogurt and toast and set off for what is regarded as the most difficult day of the trek. We walked a moderate uphill section for about 4 hours to reach our lunch tent which had amazing views over the valley we had just walked up. Julio pointed out the top of the pass we were walking to: it was massive and looked like a very long walk! However, just 2 hours and an incredibly steep climb later we reached the top - Dead Women`s Pass. At 4200m above sea level it was the highest we would climb on the trek and you could feel the oxygen thinning as we climbed. Unfortunately it was very cloudy, misty and pouring with rain so we couldn`t see much but it made for an excellent sight when about 20 llamas came trotting through the mist of the top of the pass. The climb down to the second campsite at Pacamayo (3600m) was slippery and steep and I was very happy when I finally made it. Craig however practically ran the downhill section, claiming that he couldn`t walk slowly going downhill (although it was noted that this didn`t apply when walking with 3 girls on the 3rd day!). The day was difficult and so steep thanks to massive Inca steps but we both didn`t find it too strenuous which was good as the third day required us to walk 15KM with tired legs!

Day 3

The third day was a very long day of walking. We got up at 5am and walked from about 6am until 4.30pm - 15KM. However the trail was made up of 99% original Inca steps and track which made it quite exciting if not tiring! The steps range from massive-need to be pulled up, to tiny-can`t fit your feet on them, which made for a difficult walk. We saw a wide array of scenery from high rocky mountains to massive waterfalls through thick jungle. We walked up two passes Abra de Runkuracay (4000m) and another at 3700m. We also visited lots of Inca ruins, one called Sayacmarca (3624m) which means Inaccessible Town, is protected on three sides by sheer cliffs. Another, Phuyupatamarca, which means Town in the Clouds, was also really impressive. Along the way we took an overgrown side path to see an Inca ruin that was overgrown with trees and moss. Julio told us that that was how all of the Inca sites were found. It was completely untouched and like a little grotto, and for me, the best Inca ruin of the trip. I`m not sure if this is true but Julio said that only his group ever walk the track to see this ruin (but you never know!). I spent most of the afternoon walking on my own and really enjoyed the peace and tranquility of the trail.  We camped at Winay Wayna and had some wine and beer to celebrate making it that far! During the evening we had a little party with all of the guides and porters squashed into our food tent. We were introduced to all of the porters (about 30 in total) and they gave a speech and sang a song about the trail! In return we got together in a country groups and sang national songs. We sang Sweet Charriot complete with really crap actions. It was a very amusing evening and one I won`t forget in a hurry!

Day 4

We had a fairly disapointing start to the final day as it was pouring with rain and the amazing mountains which we could see the previous day from our tents, were covered in thick cloud. We got up at 4AM and were ready to roll by about 4.45. All of the guides try to get their group first to the final check point before the Sun Gate which opens at 5AM as theoretically the first group there will have completely uninterrupted views. We were the first group there but as we were queuing another group pushed passed us! Everyone was very English about it and kept quiet but this is something which we have regularly been subject to, so we vowed to less British in future!

Anyway we made it to the Sun Gate climbing up some incredibly steep steps in the process. By this point the rain was very heavy and the spectacular sight of Machu Picchu below us was nowhere to be seen thanks to the mist. Slightly disappointed, we climbed down to the first viewing point where infrequent breaks in the cloud gave us a chance to glimpse the city. Considering the awful weather the sights were still amazing as clouds swirled round Machu Picchu so one minute it was invisible and the next was really clear.

By the time we had our group picture taken we were all soaked and cold but miraculously the rain and cloud cleared and left beautiful sunshine and a perfectly clear sky in its place. The tour round was so interesting. Julio said it would take around an hour and a half but 3 hours later we were still hanging onto his every word. His knowledge was brilliant and when he played his flute from the highest religious building the whole place went quiet and became quite eerie.

Myself and Craig spent another couple of hours relaxing in the glorious sunshine on the terraces overlooking the city and mountains beyond then caught a bus to Aguas Calientes (lit. hot waters) where we spent a while looking round. By this point I had no ankles as my feet had got so severely bitten on the last night and I couldn`t walk very far (I didn`t see my ankles until about 3 days later). The train journey back revealed some beautiful scenery and we were both really sad to return to `real life`. Overall we both agreed it was one of the most amazing things we have ever done, and perhaps will ever do. It`s truely impossible to describe how spectacular the trail was and what an achievement it was to reach Machu Picchu.