Our last stop in Cambodia was Phnom Penh, the capital. Much busier than the former capital, Siem Reap, it was our first real glimpse at how headache-inducing South East Asian cities can be. We wondered around the central market, acquiring another man-vest and some funky shorts for Greg. We then dived into a cafe to escape the heat and were rather tickled to find their stereo playing some classic Christmas hits, including the unforgettable 'Last Christmas' by Wham.

That evening after some happy hour cocktails overlooking the river we went for some 'local-local' food, as Fila called it. Essentially we were taken down some backstreets to one of the few places in the city that didn't cater to westerners. No English anywhere to be seen and so Fila translated everything for us whilst we sat back and enjoyed the live music (regardless of the country there is always a guy with an acoustic guitar) and ignored the locals staring openly at our presence. The translation only fell short when, after asking for a draft beer each, we ended up with a jug of beer each. It did make a fantastic accompaniment to Greg's beef with black ants though. Thoroughly fed and extra-thoroughly watered we headed back to the hotel for our last night in Cambodia before we made the anxiously awaited Vietnamese border crossing the following day.