Its now called Leper (places around here seem to have multiple names, down to the fact that no-one can agree on a single language to use). Of course, we Brits, and, no doubt, my Grandad too, call it Wipers (as in "I think you need to change those bloody wiper blades"). Ypres, Wipers or Leper is now a town almost exclusively dedicated to the First War and that fact, I'd suggest, is both magnificent and appalling at the same time.