For some reason we were put on the 6.50pm train with Lisa and Geoff getting us back to Cuzco at 10.30pm (our only complaint with Llama Path really as they didnt advise this before and both us and Lisa and Geoff had early flights) we arrived back at Ninos Hotel.

Back in the hotel, no problems with our room or getting our bags and we laid everything out to dry as best it could. A lovely warm shower and I think we both felt human again. Into bed and I think we both just crashed.

Up early, a good breakfast and we ended up sharing a cab to the airport with two others. Only 10 soles to get there, for all four of us. Couldn't believe it as we paid 20 soles to get into Cuzco when we arrived!!

After quickly getting to the airport we then found one of the airport security staff to be a complete idiot. He wanted to check my bag (we hadn't even checked in) o problems there but was insistent that Phil move on without me. No way that was going to happen and he gave up when Phil didn't budge. Even funnier was when they found I had locked all the openings with padlocks they didn't even bother getting me to open them.  It was so strange. no idea what would have happened if we hadn't been together.   Tickets were quick to be issued and once through the airport we were happy to find our flight was leaving on time unlike the Lima flight which had already been delayed a couple of hours was complete chaos.

After a very quick flight of about 40 minutes (with a good view of the amazon from the plane) we arrived in Puerto Maldonado and met our guide Yoshulu (pronounced Josi Lou) and we headed off down river to Sandoval Lake. About an hour after getting on the boat we arrived at the rangers shelter where we were signed in and our passport stamped. Seems a bit strange here that some places stamp your passport (inca trail and amazon) when they aren't countries.

Anyway it was then a 2km walk to the boat which would take us over the lake to our lodge. Sandoval Lodge is the only lodge on Sandoval Lake. We were very surprised when only a little while into our walk we saw brown monkeys and squirrel monkeys and there were heaps of them. Turns out the brown monkeys throw down the fruit and nuts from the top of the trees and the capuchins gather it and eat it. The capuchins were just gorgeous and so tiny.

Our guide had never seen these two species of monkeys working together in this way so it turned out to be quite a special experience. The two guides aren't sure what that the brown monkeys get out of the relationship but it's quite obvious what the squirrel monkeys do. Maybe the squirrel monkeys act as a radar for predators warning the brown monkeys who were in smaller numbers?

We also saw really bright coloured butterflies, woodpeckers, leafcutter ants and huge yellow bees. It was then onto the lodge. After a canoe ride - they don't have any motors on the lake - we arrived at our lodge and settled in, unfortunately next to a brazilian who was very ill - and yep you can guess what happened a few days down the track - who we later found out not only snored but also coughed all night. He was a pretty interesting guy and we got to know him over tea (you eat every meal with your guide which is ok but when it is only the three of you it can get a bit awkward sometimes). He was a professional photographer who has an interest in improving the water quality and is in the process of making a documentary to help achieve this. We certainly wish him all the best. Ony hope the people realise what they have before it is too late.

The thing to know about Sandoval Lodge is that the rooms are seperated by walls but there is one roof that runs the length of the lodge and there are no ceilings in any room so pretty much you can hear everything in the next room. The lodge itself was nice, however we also lucked out with our shower not working properly which was never fixed during our time there although no one else had a problem with theirs. Anyway enough of the complaints.

As we unpacked we could hear a strange scratching noise coming from outside. Investigating we found a large rat like animal trying to open a nut. Turns out these are agouti's. Lots of them in the amazon area and oh so very cute.

Our stay at Sandoval Lodge consisted of boat trips on the lake, a night walk through the forest and a tour of the forest where our guide explained the medicinal purposes of many native trees and plants. This was particularly interesting. A species of Pseudomymex ant has an interesting symbiotic relationship with it's chosen tree. It will attack anything that attempts to eat it or scratch on it. They move really quickly and we were told they have a nasty bite. We weren't that keen to find out if that was the case though!

A kind of wild coriander (Phil was still turned off by it), Shorcot, they use like deep heat ointment and abisca plants, where they use the fruit as a lipstick and a clothing dye. It is a really deep red. Next was the Brazil nut. I'm still kicking myself that I didn't get a photo of Phil opening it with the machete. The nuts themselves are so much different to the ones we get at home. Taste more like fresh coconut but creamier. If we got them like this at home (fresh ones) I think i'd have a new addiction they were that good. The Brazil nut trees take 35 years to first bear fruit and they are huge trees. They need a special bee to pollinate the flower so we can't grow them at home. Pity.

It was then into the forest and further explaination of the trees. The Kaybook (or something similar) is the tallest tree at 65 metres tall. It had tangle vines on it and we got to swing from them. Cool in a childish way. Another amazing tree only found in the Amazon is the walking tree. If it can't get what it needs from the soil etc it produces new limbs which over time move the tree in some cases metres. Got to be impressed with nature.

Phil took a particular liking to the fire tree which sheds it's outer bark every few weeks. It really stands out as the under layer is completely smooth with no moss or other plants growing on it. It's sap can also be used as a fuel. The other cool medicinal tree was the Unohona tree. The native tribes would use the bark as an anti-malarial medicine. They were used in WW2 and became very sought after by all the countries fighting there. Apparently it tastes vile but it works.

The night walk was a bit of a highlight for the tarantualas. Oh my god they are huge. The one below is a female. Not much further on we found a nest with about 10 babies. Unfortunately Phil didn't get to see all the babies only a couple as they went further into the burrow as soon as the torch was put on them. Still glad we don't have them in Australia, although they are pretty harmless I hear, and Phil was stoked to see them.

My highlight was seeing the Otters. There is a family of 7 in the lake. Picture below is pretty vague but that is two of them and we were so lucky to see them as no one had seen them for four days and then a fortnight before that.

We nearly saw one get eaten by a big caiman too. They were too busy chasing food we don't think they saw it but they were both ok. The baby caimans are everywhere. Well they hide in the reeds and near the bank because pretty much everything wants to eat them while they are small. We did see an absolutely huge one in the middle of the lake one day. They are so silent when they swim, I can understand how they catch fish and other animals.

On our last day we went to see if we see a Macaw. Phil was happily surprised when they finally found a blue and yellow Macaw although it was a distance away from him. On the boat ride back we were lucky to see a family of Howler Monkeys. Apparently this was a large family group consisting of 8 members. They even had a baby one which was adorable.

On our final afternoon we went to the boundary of Sandoval Lake. Basically the rest is a national park and only rangers are allowed to enter. The guides get heavily fined if they enter and lose their accreditation for 12 months! From the lookout we got an amazing view of the lake and the beautiful sunset.

Our highlight of our tour was when we were sitting out the front of the lodge, reading and relaxing and spider monkeys decided to travel through the trees above our heads and in the trees in front of us and then turned around and went back. There would have been 30-40 of them and they were everywhere. We did get video of them which was so cool.

All in all we enjoyed the trip although it really is more of a place to see birds rather than wildlife.
The most common bird is the hoatzin. Very loud and apparently 'stinky' (from our guide). Also the program was way more structured than we expected with activities very planned out including a number of 5.30am starts and also all meals are eaten with your guide which we did think was strange and as mentioned at times awkward.

Had a good time all in all and am sad to sad this lake may not be here in 100 years as it is cut off from teh main river. It is only about 3 metres deep in the middle and with evaporation will most likely eventually dry out.

And back to Cuzco it is. . .