11th April 2023

Hi,

24th March 2023

Continuing on our tour we left Halong Bay after a breakfast which included a green drink called Pennywort, which is from a plant of the same name. The hotel staff assured me it was good for my health and I can't say that I suffered any ill effects. On returning home I have since found that it does indeed claim a number of benefits for various ailments.

We had a three hour drive back to Hanoi Airport with one stop for a break at a retail outlet, which gave the group an opportunity for some retail therapy. The flight from Hanoi to Danang via Vietnamese airlines took just over an hour and went smoothly. This took us from North Vietnam to Central Vietnam. We then transferred for around 45 minutes to the Hoi An Boutique Resort, where we would spend three nights. After arrival the now mandatory banquet took place. The hotel is lovely with a fabulous pool and also access to the beach.

25th-27th March

Hoi An (we were told) means a 'peaceful meeting place.' It has a fascinating history as a major South East Asian port and was known as 'Faifoo' to western traders. Population c.150,000.The town itself has a lovely relaxed feel and provided a strong contrast to the pollution and traffic of Hanoi.

We embarked on a walking tour of Hoi An. In the city centre area the streets are narrow and compact and buzzing with life. Our first stop was a Silk Factory. We were taken step by step through the whole process from the worms themselves to the finished garments. I've tried to use the photos to reflect this. I found it a fascinating process. More than a few of our group were willing shoppers and staff whirled around like dervishes with measuring tapes, whilst a group of bored men (including myself) sat around longing for the next part of the tour. Gerry popped his head round to inform us 'well I'll say this: it's the first time I've been measured for an inside leg when I was buying a shirt!'

We stopped for a photo at the Japanese Covered Bridge, which dates back to the 1590s and is the emblem of the town. It originally linked the Chinese and Japanese quarters. From there we had views over the river and enjoyed the sights and sounds of the street. Traders here are active in approaching tourists but in my experience much less pushy than in other Asian countries.

Part of the charm of Hoi An is the number of old family houses sprinkled in amongst more modern buildings. We visited Du'c An House, which has been in the ownership of the family for over 400 years. The present one was rebuilt about 1850 ago. In the past it has been an apothecary and a bookstore, with the family home enclosed. The owner was present and spoke about his father and grandfather. His father Cao Hong Lanh had lived to be 104 years old and there were photos of his 100th birthday and his state funeral. Apparently he was a high profile communist party official and an instigator of that party. Seats in the house were hierarchical and PJ and I tried out the highest two! Lovely ornate furniture and chandeliers enhanced the experience and story of the house and family.

After a brief visit to the Chinese Assembly Hall it was time for a trip down the Thu Bon River. The group split into two boats and I was in the boat with the singers! Pat, Brian and Bern tried steering and a few sea shanties broke out as we tried to dredge (no pun intended) up some sea faring songs from our Singing Together classes in primary school. All in all a very good natured outing, whilst giving us a different perspective on the town.

We had lunch at Ban Mi Phuong. Ban Mi is a popular baguette and the place was mobbed. It was a cheap lunch but not an outstanding foodie memory. Chewy bread filled with fresh greens and pork/beef/chicken. Adequate is the phrase I would use. Filled a hole.

There was an optional tour in the afternoon up to Ban Na Hill Station. You travel in a cable car up 1400 metres over jungle and waterfalls. At the top is a 150m Golden Bridge supported by huge hands made of fibreglass and wire mesh. Quite a sight as you'll see from the photos. The rest was the complex was haphazard and bizarre. There is a huge development (not yet completed) which includes a mock French town, a 24 metre high Buddha and a pagoda at the top. It has the whiff of a theme park with all sorts of fast food like hot dogs, German beer and sausages etc. on sale. I think it was worth going up to see the bridge, the views and the ride up and down, but on reflection I would have been as well to come back down immediately after seeing the bridge.

Back in Hoi An at our hotel we were in for bed and breakfast so had to organise evening meals over the weekend. For myself I just went over the road in front of the hotel and ate both nights with the local offering. There were about 16 of us for one night and I had dinner with Adrian and Barbara on the second night. I tried Cao Lau, a local delicacy with greens and fresh rice noodles with pork on top. Highly recommended. Each night I didn't pay more for a tenner for the meal, although it must be said that banquets at lunchtime do take the edge off your appetite! Vietnamese beef is a bit chewy and not recommended so most of the beef sold is from abroad.

Another eye opener for the cost conscious traveller was the local laundry facilities. Cost was less than £1 per kilo! You used the hotel bag, walked past the reception in full view of staff and went over to the local laundry right over the road, picking it up the next day. Very handy in the heat!

Our only other organised activity in Hoi An was a cookery class. Very close to the hotel was Tra Que Vegetable Village. We visited the farm first and then got to cooking after a complimentary foot massage. We had a go at crafting these ornate vegetables you see accompanying food in Asian restaurants with varying degrees of success. We made spring rolls, a pancake of sorts and a chicken curry. It was all very entertaining and of course we scoffed everything we made. At this stage I have had spring rolls every single day but am not tired of them yet!

I must say that Hoi An is my favourite place visited to date on the tour, Relaxed and laid whilst also being vibrant and interesting. A week here would be nice in order to explore further.

27th-28th March

We left Hoi An and spent most of the day travelling to Hue. We stopped firstly at a stone workshop where they make all kinds of statues and other items. Very colourful for taking photographs.

Passing through Danang we stopped for a photo at the Dragon Bridge, an impressive structure. I cannot recall the name of the restaurant we stopped at for lunch but it had lovely dark wood furniture and the decorative creation accompanying the dishes was outstanding. I'm not a great one for taking photos of food but have squeezed these in. You'll know why when you see the photo section.

In Hue it started to rain and got very dark overhead. We visited the Imperial Citadel and the 19th century Tomb of Emperor Tu Duc, the last Vietnamese monarch to rule independently. The Citadel (built 1804-33) looked interesting with its various pavilions but I don't think the photos are up to much due to the lack of light. I had to buy a rain poncho and Jimmy decided to abandon the original plans for a boat trip and we headed for our hotel.

We stayed at the Saigon Morin and didn't spend much time there as it was one night only and we were eating out. However it was perfectly adequate. We had a lovely dinner in a French influenced restaurant (sorry the name escapes me) and I sat with Bern, Patricia, Brian, Tom, Carmel, Adele and Gerard.

On the following morning we checked out of our hotel and visited the Thien Mu Pagoda, a seven story temple which is the unofficial symbol of Hue. It was first built in 1601 and has been adapted in subsequent years. It became a hotbed of anti-government protest in the 1960 when the powers of that time favoured Roman Catholics over Buddhists. The temple also houses the Austin motor vehicle in which a Buddhist monk was driven to his self-immolation in Saigon in 1963 against the Diem regime. It was the first of a series of self-immolations by members of the Buddhist clergy, which brought the plight of Buddhists to the attention of the international community.

We then took a 40 minute cruise on the Perfume River. It is so called from the perfume caused by falling leaves from aromatic plants which are along its banks. I honestly can't say I noticed it during my visit. The boat seemed to be mainly a shop so I spent my time on deck. The weather had cleared and yesterday's rain was the only time we saw it on our trip. It was time to head south to even warmer climes…..

Our flight from Danang to Saigon (Ho Cho Min City) was just over an hour. I must say that Vietnam Airways were very good on both of our internal flights with no hassles whatsoever.

Our next stage of the adventure was to begin. It was good that we spent at least some time in the highlands and not just on the big cities of the north and south, giving us at least some insight into a more relaxed rural scene. I'm aware we are only just scratching the surface but I certainly enjoyed the contrast from being in Hanoi. Now the biggest of the cities approaches.

I hope you enjoy the photos for this section. There are rather a lot but then we were going around at a fast pace.

All the best

Murdo