Back to Essaouira and I know you're wondering why I'd go back when I said the last time I'd been there that I'd seen all there was really to see. Well, that was then, this is now. And now the town is overwhelmed by the week-long Gnaoua and World Music Festival which has completely taken over the town. The crowds here are incredible, streets I remember sauntering down with ease you now have to fight your way through. I was a bit worried about accom...

So, Essaouira... A complete change of pace from Marrakech! This seaside town is chilled, laid-back and made for recharging those worn-out travel batteries! It is only 3 hrs by bus from Marrakech and it was great to chill there for the 2 and a half days I was there. That length of time was plenty though, because I'm not yet at that stage when I want to relax; I only just got to Morocco! So the 1st full day I'm here I just wander the strees of the medina and the so...