Is Egypt a third-world country?

That is a difficult question to answer. The day we visited the pyramids in Giza, our guide first took us several miles south of Cairo to see the ancient Egyptian capital, Memphis. The 4000-6000-year-old statues and the early prototypes for pyramid construction were remarkable, but the local residents' way of life left a deeper impression.

Outside the chaos of Cairo lies a different Egypt, one where the brays of burros are more common than the honks of horns. Only those families who have risen above subsistence farming (in the irrigated Sahara) have much opportunity to participate in the larger economy. And it seems there are few near Memphis who can emerge from poverty. Egypt is not so bad as Somalia, but it has far to go before its people can feel secure about food, clothing, shelter, and transportation.

When we eventually made our way to the enormous Great Pyramid and its cousins, we were reminded how advanced was the civilization of Ancient Egypt. They rose to the pinnacle of their era. And despite what the old religious films would have you believe, the pyramids were built not by slave labor, but instead by paid Egyptian laborers during non-agricultural season. It gave them a chance to rise above the level of subsistence farming.

Such labor makes perfect sense, even from our own context. To the ancient Egyptians, the Pharaoh was a god, and the pyramids were roughly the equivalent of constructing a cathedral or a mosque.

After the pyramids, Toby and I made our way to The Citadel, the walled fortress fortified by Saladin as a defense from Crusaders and from which Egypt's royalty ruled for seven centuries. It is filled with mosques, but otherwise reminded me of the Tower of London. It seems that religion and government are the great progenitors of architectural grandeur.

Here are some photos of the day. On Saturday we're off for Luxor.