Friday, October 31 ( "The Longest Day—EVER!"/ Phnom Penh, Cambodia): Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, was once considered one of the prettiest French built cities. When the Vietnam War spread to Cambodia, the city's population swelled with refugees, reaching nearly two million in early 1975. The Khmer Rouge took over the city in April 1975 and immediately forced the entire population into the countryside as part of a radical social program. During the next four years, more than one million Cambodians (including a vast majority of educated people & those who wore glasses) were killed.

First we visited the Killing Fields and Toul Sleng (formerly S21 prison), a school that was converted into a prison camp and torture chamber by the Khmer Rouse. Thousands of Cambodians were incarcerated there before they were taken to Choeng Ek (also known at the Killing Fields) to be killed. Photographs of the victims, taken before or after torture, line the walls of the former schoolrooms. The only 'crime' committed by most of these victims was being educated. One room is constructed of human skills to symbolize the fact that death and destruction carried out by the Pol Pot Regine affected the entire country. At the Killing Fields of Choeng Ek, we saw the graves of more that 17,000 men, women, and children who were executed at this extermination campus between 1975-1978. Also, I saw pieces of clothing (red shirts, striped shirts, flip flops, etc) that were partially buried.

During our city orientation of Phnom Penh, we also visited the National Musuem and viewed the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. It seemed very abrupt for us to visit the Killing Fields and Toul Sleng, then go to the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, and National Museum, but that's what we did. We probably should have taken some time to discuss what we had seen.

Afterwards, we went to lunch and Professor Patty Duncan met us there with one of the survivors of acid burning attacks. Earlier in the semester Patty shared her documentary, Saving Face, about women who had been attacked with acid in Cambodia. It was powerful to meet a survivor who continues to live her life despite such horrible circumstances. Once we finished with lunch, our tour guide gave us an hour to wander around the local market or the shopping mall. I decided to look around the market and before I knew it, I had to return to the bus. I came out of the market, looked around, and instantly knew I was in the wrong place. I went into the market again and tried to zig zag my way out…wrong again. Everything looked the same inside the market with tons of purse vendors and scarf vendors and fruit vendors and item, upon item. I was panicked, then I finally found the right way to exit the market. While I came out on the street, I looked around trying to remember which way I had come, but everything looked the same.I was panicked because I didn't remember the name of the restaurant and I hadn't noticed any street signs. The trip leader, of all people, can't be lost in Cambodia!! We had to catch a flight to Angkor Wat. What would I do? In my head I was thinking: OMG! OMG! OMG! I collected myself, picked a direction, and started walking. I crossed the street (not a simple task), noticed a gas station, looked down a side street and saw our SAS bus…I've never been so excited to see a bus of SASers…OMG! I'm safe—what a relief!

Greg, the videographer, saw me and asked for a sound bite while we waited for the last few students. I told him about my little adventure on camera and he laughed because he's been on five SAS voyages (hinsight always makes it more comical, but in the moment—NOT FUNNY!). My experience caused me to consider what steps might I have taken for myself…what would I do if a student really did not return? Just as I started working up a plan, the last five students hopped on the bus. Ah, crisis averted.

Next, we headed to the airport for a flight from Phnom Penh, Cambodia to Angkor Wat, Cambodia. I purchased bath salts in an airport store in hopes that my hotel room would have a tub; I love taking baths and over the past few months I've really missed it. Once we arrived in Angkor Wat, we drove directly to sunset at Angkor Wat Temple. Angkor Wat was built around the 9th century at the height of the Khmer civilization. We visited the most famous temple complex, Angkor Wat. The ruins were constructed by Khmer kings to include massive stone temples, majestic entrances, and soaring towers.

The bus stopped in front of six elephants. Thye, our tour guide, told us we could not ride elephants because we did not have reservations. He directed us to the sunset trail for a 15 minute hike to the top of Angkor Wat Temple. At first five people walked leisurely along the trail, then we realized that we might miss sunset if we didn't rush to the top. Greg and three students just bolted…they started running. I didn't attempt to run, but I walked super fast (thanks to my Avon skills-lol) and didn't look back. I was weaving in and out of the crowd, stepping over tree trunks, and sweating like crazy. As I approached the top, I saw a bunch of people sitting on the stairs of the temple. I kept walking towards the stairs and quickly realized people weren't sitting on stairs, they were standing on the temple. From my original vantage point, people appeared to be on stairs because I was so far away. Once I got close enough, I could see people climbing up the side of the temple. The "stairs" were at a 90 degree angle—seriously! People were turning sideways to walk up the narrow stairs. I stood at the foot of the temple watching people climb up while the sun was setting. I probably stood at the bottom for a good five minutes when several students came up behind me and said, "you were booking." This time they passed me and started climbing the stairs. As salty sweat dripped in my eyes, I contemplated if I could do it. I'm kinda afraid of heights and climbing up partially broken stairs seemed dangerous. In the moment, I decided I'd come too far NOT to do it. So I wiped my forehead, tightened my backpack, and started climbing…not one set of stairs, but three. I felt like dancing to the Rocky theme song when I made it to the top. What an accomplishment. I saw a few students and started talking to them, then one said "I rode an elephant up here!" You gotta be kidding me! My heart nearly exploded to get up here and YOU rode an elephant up?! Oh well. I guess my experience was worthwhile and a good little reminder to believe in myself. Anyway, there were tons of people up top and a group of monks (dressed in orange) watching the sunset. It was an absolutely beautiful sunset and the temple ruins were stunning.

I thought going up was an accomplishment, but coming down was a greater accomplishment!! On the way down, I had to strategically place myself, which sometimes meant sitting down to reach the next stair. One stair may have been what we now consider two stairs, so for a short person, it's hard work. I made it down to the bottom without any injuries and as I turned to look at the temple one last time, twelve monks were descending. Since the sunset, we had no light to guide us down the trail to the bus, but made it down okay. After sunset, we enjoyed dinner at Kulen II Restaurant with a cultural dance show. The food was absolutely delicious!

When we returned checked into the hotel, I met Annette, a special tour agent assigned to our group. She would help me navigate our return to Vietnam. Annette gave me $925 in an envelope for our customs fees from Cambodia to Vietnam. Then she asked me to collect all passports so we could have them for an early check in the next day. I was not in favor of collecting or holding on to 37 passports; in other countries, people steal passports and pay big money to buy one.I also did not want hotel desk to have an envelope of 37 passports. If I kept the passports, they would be unmonitored in my room. If I carried the passports with me all day, that would also be stressful AND what if something fell out or my bag was stolen. Ugh, either way a catch 22. She insisted it was necessary, so I complied, stapled the enveloped shut, and allowed the hotel desk to lock passports in a safe. Annette also asked me to recollect everyone's return plane ticket, which was annoying and seemed like an inefficient use of my time. Why distribute something you'll need to recollect?!

I know I was cranky…largely due to having such a long day. I soaked in a luxurious tub with my bath salts before a very early morning. THE END…finally!

Saturday, November 1 ( "Passports"/Angkor Wat, Cambodia): This morning 13 (out of 37) met in the lobby at 5am to go watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat, which has more than 300 temples. Thye shared his special spot with us so we could watch the sunrise. Unfortunately the sun covered most of the sun, but later in the morning the sun rose above the clouds and the sky was beautiful. We returned to the hotel for breakfast, picked up the rest of the group, and headed back out to see Ta Prohm Temple.

Ta Prohm Temple was rediscovered by the French in 1920s. Cambodia was colonized by the French until 1957. When French colonized Cambodia, they restored a majority of Angkor Wat, especially Ta Prohm Temple. This particular temple had large tree roots growing around the stone buildings. Also, the temple was designed to be maze like so you walk into all kinds of mini special rooms—such an exotic place.

We returned to the hotel for lunch, checked out of our rooms, and I got the passport envelope from the hotel desk (of all the things I had to do, the stress of carrying passports was my least favorite).

The group went to the south gate of Angkor Wat to see the main entrance and explore independently. Annette picked me up from Angkor Wat an hour early so I could do early group check in and pay for customs. I told Greg, in my absence, he had to oversee everything. Luckily all went well. Students poured off the bus with all kinds of souvenirs and luggage. I distributed passports and tickets and we did not have any issues traveling back to Vietnam.

Sunday, November 2 ( "Can You Make It in One Day?"/ Cambodia to Vietnam): Vietnam is the place to have clothing made. Tailors are everywhere and it's quite inexpensive to have something hand made. I really wanted to have a few clothing items tailored, but being in Cambodia reduced my stay in Vietnam so having something tailored in one day seemed unrealistic.

A student from my Cambodia trip wanted to explore Vietnam too, so we went out together. As we were walking down the street, she noticed a silk dress on display and when we looked closer we noticed it was a silk tailor. We went in and I fell in love with two shirts. I asked if the shirts could be made in one day and the woman said yes! Hooray, I can have clothes tailored. The woman took my measurements and asked me to pick out fabric. I had a red shirt and skirt made for the Vagina Monologues. And, just for fun, I also selected a green silk embroidered blouse.

I spent the entire afternoon with Allison. We went to a spa and I had a manicure, pedicure, eyebrow wax, facial scrub, and 75 minute massage for $52 USD. After spa treatment we went to Pho 24 for an avocado shake, then we explored Ben Thanh Market. In the market, we met a young Vietnamese student who was very friendly. He told us about a place to go for good local food, so we had a late lunch there. I had a perfect cup of Vietnamese coffee (they strain coffee over sweet, condensed milk and pour over ice) and we shared prawns in coconut milk, noodle soup, and rice paper spring rolls.

After dinner we returned to the market because Allison wanted to purchase shoes and a painting she had seen earlier. We took a taxi back to the ship and as I was approaching the ship, I saw Becca and Shalina. They were going to pick up their tailored clothes and have dinner. I decided to drop my things and go back out with them. We taxied back into town so we wouldn't have to wait on the shuttle bus.

Becca had two shirts made and Shalina had two skirts and three pairs of slacks made. Their clothes were so nice! I asked the woman if she could make a pair of slacks for me by 2pm the next day. She said, "yes!" So she measured Shalina for another pair of slacks. Then she measured me for a pair of linen slacks ($28 USD). Although I had a skirt made, later in the day I started thinking that slacks and shirt would be more appropriate for my debut performance—LOL!

Unfortunately I couldn't stay out late because I had to return to the ship by 9pm for duty. After the tailor, we went to Pho 24 for soup and Vietnamese coffee. They planned to go out shopping and I asked them to pick up a same, same t-shirt for me. In Vietnam, the locals say, "same, same, but different" when they're talking about fake watches, purses, etc, so I wanted a t-shirt with the saying. I paid my bill and left Becca and Shalina inside so I could hail a taxi back to the ship. I hailed three drivers who had no idea what I was saying. All day Allison and I had used taxis without a problem, but now I seemed to be lost in translation. Becca and Shalina came out just as I was hailing another taxi and they stayed with me until I drove away in the back seat.

I swiped my ship's ID exactly at 9pm for duty. As I was checking in at the purser's desk, Curtis walked by and we started talking. He came down to my cabin to check out my Ben Tanh Market purchases. About an hour later Shalina and Becca came to my cabin with a same-same t-shirt. We laughed and chatted in my cabin for a few hours, so I didn't end up on duty alone AND no incidents occurred!

Monday, November 3 ( "Frogger"/ Vietnam): This morning I served as trip leader to an elementary school. I had a small group of 13 people; we spent a few hours at the school observing classes and teaching students simple English rhymes.

After the school visit, I took a shuttle from the ship to city center. I busted out my map and figured out how to walk to the post office. In Vietnam, traffic is a nightmare!! India's traffic, while chaotic, pales in comparison to Vietnam. In India, people were driving cars, motorcycles, bikes and cows were weaving into oncoming traffic. So I think India was hectic because there were no lanes, which creates confusion.

Now, here in Vietnam, lanes exist. The problem is there are thousands, upon thousands of people riding motorcycles (we'd call them scooters in the U.S.) and they do not stop for pedestrians. There's not a break in traffic…it's just a constant stream of scooters going at full speed. OMG, crossing the street gave me such anxiety because Vietnamese drivers are so reckless and the driver assumes no responsibility for the pedestrian. Each time I crossed the street, I felt like I was playing a game of frogger with my life. It feels counter intuitive, but in Vietnam you just walk into the traffic. In America, you look both ways then cross the street. In this country, you look both ways, then walk into the stream of traffic and hope drivers will maneuver around you. AHHHHH! As I was crossing the street for the post office a motorcycle nearly hit me. I was in the middle of the street (I think he sped up) and he brushed past my front side. Jerk!

I purchased a few stamps and walked back to a corner café for my last cup of Vietnamese coffee. I wrote a few postcards while I ate lunch and drank coffee. Afterwards I walked down to the tailor to pick up my clothes early, but she told me to return at 5pm. I went back to the ship and unpacked from Cambodia.

Around 4pm, I ventured back out into the city to get my clothes. I picked up the slacks I had made with Becca and Shalina. I was super excited! I tried them on and…they were floods! Floods I tell you. The woman must have seen my face as I looked at them because she said she could let them. She gave my slacks to a man, who jumped on a scooter, and drove away with my pants. I waited about 25 minutes and the man reappeared with my slacks. Thank goodness!

By the time all this happened, my time counter was ticking down. I had to be back on the ship at 7pm. I wanted to walk to the other tailor, but decided to hail a taxi because I didn't want to deal with the stress of crossing streets and I knew my other garments might require alterations so time was of the essence. I hailed two taxi drivers who tried to over charge me, which was completely irritating, but I finally found someone who accepted my price. He dropped me in front of the tailor within five minutes of leaving the last place. I walked in and the woman gave me the red linen shirt, black skirt, and green silk blouse. The red linen shirt…too big in the upper arm. The black skirt with red flowering…too big around the waist. The green silk blouse…too big along the arm/hand area. I was so disappointed!

The woman assured me she could make simple alterations within 30 minutes. I told her the red shirt was a priority because I really needed that one. She re-pinned all the clothes and helped me take everything off. Then, a guy came in and drove off on a scooter with my clothes. I walked around the local area looking in shops while I waited for the alterations. When I returned to the store at 6:30pm, the guy had not returned. Just as she was about to call him, pulled up on the sidewalk and ran in with my things. I told he I didn't need to try them on, I'd just take the garments as they were. She packed everything up and I left, stopped at Gloria Jean's (like Starbucks) for one last, last Vietnamese iced coffee, hailed a cab, and made it back to the ship with ten minutes to spare.

Next stop, China!