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We left Nugget City RV park at 7.30am, it was Saturday and the RV repair shops at Whitehorse wouldn't be open all day and who knows how busy they would be! We passed through a few places we would have liked to have had a better look at but we will travel this road again on our way back from Alaska. We saw a bear at very close quarters - in the road dead with an Eagle trying to feed of the carcass in between passing vehicles. We see so much bear scat (poo) on the road that it's inevitable that some bears get hit. We arrived at Fireweed RV services just after midday. They immediately knew what the problem was, there should be a gasket inside the connector but they crack and fall out. In 10 minutes from arriving a new hose was fitted and working - fantastic. After five days of mainly driving we were hoping that Whitehorse was worth a stay for a few nights - we stayed for six! Great sunny hike up Grey Mountain, mostly up a hiking / mountain bike track - my god was it steep, I couldn't ride down it! We visited a dog sledding kennels, all the dogs are chained up and it appears cruel but the dogs are happy, well looked after, exercised every day and loved greatly by their owners and volunteer workers (which included a young lady from Lincoln). If they are not chained up, dogs from different sled teams would fight and dogs may get shot by neighbours or attacked by bears if they wander off. Donna loved the latest litter of puppies born 26th December which had each been named after Santa's reindeers. In Whitehorse we visited the Klondike paddle wheeler - the last rear paddle steamer that ran on the Yukon river (up to 1955). Then we took a self-guided audio tour of the town's historic buildings which includes a 4 storey timber skyscraper - cutting edge at the time (no pun intended). Now here's the history lesson. Gold was discovered in the Klondike August 16 1896 and it triggered a stampede of around 100.000 prospectors between 1896 and 1899. Some became wealthy, but the majority went in vain. To reach the gold fields, most took the route through the ports of Dyea and Skagway in Southeast Alaska. Here, the Klondikers could follow either the Chilkoot or the White Pass trails, then build rafts and sail down the Yukon River to the Klondike. One obstacle on the way was the ferocious Whitehorse rapids in Miles canyon. Here they offloaded their supplies, women and children at a camp that became known as Canyon City. These went overland for a few miles whilst the men faced the rapids. When the railroad was built from Skagway to Whitehorse the river traffic died and Canyon city now on the wrong bank became a ghost town. The buildings weren't abandoned though, they moved them elsewhere! The railroad led to Whitehorse being firmly established, now the capital of the Yukon. The rapids are no longer there as the river has been dammed downstream and the water level increased by 10 metres taming this once feared section of the Yukon river. We hired a canoe and paddled down the mighty Yukon for about 12 miles under a foreboding sky and with an incredible tailwind propelling us along. I never thought I would find myself in a canoe on the Yukon on my knees with my trousers and briefs pulled down and me taking a pee in the bail out pot (as there was no where in sight to land). Donna wanted to photograph this moment, luckily I had the camera! We took in a show, the Klondike follies, saws being played like violins, cancan girls showing their knickers (go to the video tab fellas) and a guy dressed in black, wearing dark glasses and a guitar slung over his shoulder. He was introduced as Roy and looked like Roy Orbison, we thought it was a tribute act - not quite it was Roy Forbes, a famous Canadian folk singer, so we didn't get 'Pretty Woman' or 'The Candy Man'. From a darkened theatre to a bright sunny evening. It was lighter at 10.00pm than in the morning when we canoeing. They have up to 22 hours of daylight in the Yukon in the summer. We went to see the world's largest weather vane, a DC3 passenger jet perched on a pole - and it does turn very easily with a breeze. We headed indoors to the Yukon transport museum and outdoors again to walk the miles canyon path to the site of Canyon city. This is a popular trail and there seemed to be plenty of people about but we still saw a bear - right next to the trail. He (or she) had heard our bear bells and was already heading into the trees. We got our bear spray out and proceeded cautiously and noisily. On the warmer nights we had roaring camp fires and I barbequed - ribs / chicken, chips and gravy / a roast dinner, on the colder nights Donna cooked in Tilly. Whilst we have been here RV's keep leaving and new ones arriving. There is a steady stream of 5th wheels and camper vans - in fact probably half of the traffic on the main highway is RV's! Next stop Skagway, Alaska (gold rush trail in reverse).
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