We didn't want to leave Skagway but we have a long way to go before summer is over. We climbed up to white pass once more except the road takes a different route to the train then they meet briefly before splitting again. The Canadian border guard was a lot more welcoming than the previous one. A grey blanket had descended but the scenery was still impressive, we certainly hit it lucky to have such great weather on the train yesterday. We had been told that north of the pass to expect smoke from wildfires. We could see smoke from small pockets of fires not too far away. We stopped at a dog mushing place where you can experience mushing rides even when there is no snow. Then we saw a dog mushing crew coming back. The paying passengers were sitting on a large quad attached to mush dogs - not quite what we envisaged. We left and moved onto Carcross and into the smoke, not thick enough to choke you but the smell was there and you couldn't even glimpse the surrounding hills. Life just went on for the people living here, no immediate threat from the fires. Another dog mushing opportunity, no engines this time just dogs, a cart (instead of a sled) a musher and a few passengers. What Donna really wants is proper winter dog sledding but that ain't gonna happen in the summer. Despite looking forward to dog sledding for so long Donna refused to pay 40 bucks for 15 minutes. We had a brief stop at Carcross desert - a desert in the mountains? It was created by silt deposits from a glacial lake that drained away as the glacier receded. With nothing else on the agenda we would clock up some miles going east. We drove further into smoke and stopped for lunch in our camper as soon as we hit a clear bit. We closed the vents and continued along many more miles of smoky highway. We saw a coyote by the roadside. Hills on the horizon were becoming harder and harder to make out and the cab filled with smell of bonfires. A quick stop at Teslin for fuel and for Donna to stroke the bears (stuffed)! At last back into open sky and sunshine to boot. We had earmarked an RV park on the map and it was smoke free. The park was a dive and they had no showers and a water shortage. Back behind the wheel then. The afternoon was drifting into evening and once more we were in the smoke, with the cab and our clothes stinking something awful. Where to stop, that was the question. Donna drove whilst I was checking our options, a provincial park site with no showers and drop toilets another hour away was going to be far enough for the day. It was tiny with just 15 sites, hopefully one left for us. We caught up a car and trailer we had passed earlier, they obviously didn't stop to check out the awful water shortage site. The car and caravan indicated to turn into the site we were aiming for. We could see straight away it looked pretty full. A non-warden site you just fill in a form and post in a box with your money - first come, first served. They stopped to read the noticeboard on the way in, we have already stayed at plenty of these sites and know the ropes. We went round them and parked up in the first available spot. This also happened to be the last spot - site now full. They circuited the tiny site and then hit the highway in search of somewhere else. Good result for us. Donna actually overheard them talking before they left and the truth is they didn't much like the place, we guess they were hoping for a washroom at least. The other good news was we had emerged into smoke free air for our overnight stay. Quiet place, beautiful sky as the sun went down - we hadn't seen much of the sky today.