Our VW Gol hire car was delivered to our hotel. Donna drove and I navigated, it was Sunday morning and thankfully the roads were quiet. We headed south on Ruta 68, with motorcyclists whizzing around us. Mothers with kids on mopeds speed down the road with none of them wearing helmets - hardly anyone wears them. We turned onto Ruta 33 and soon left the tarmac behind us, it was gravel and sand and the road twisted and turned with the road narrowing, the drops increasing until we took a break at around 10,500 feet at a pull in with souvenir stalls. We enjoyed the view as the stall owners played various instruments and offered us free samples of cheese. The road went up to a lonely chapel at around 10,800 feet and soon we were descending on tarmac through orchards of cactus. We arrived at our destination of Cachi, a small settlement on the legendary Ruta 40. We scoured the village looking for the grocery store even though it was siesta time and it was Sunday. We found it closed but couldn't figure out if would open later that day. We headed up a very bumpy road to the cabana we had booked 2kms out of town. The buildings we past weren't inspiring us for our chosen accommodation. We needn't have worried, we arrived at Cabanas los Molles, two brick chalets with private garden (dust, gravel and cactus) and mountain views all around - A great find. The lady checked us in, and introduced Draco the dog who seemed to like to lie in front of our cabana and play stick. We enquired about groceries, the store in town was closed all day, she had a store of her own which opened at 5.30pm but the opened up immediately just for us. Outside it looked very unpromising, what a surprise when she opened the door. Sweets, veg, toiletries, fizzy drinks, tins, loo roll, you name it she had it. We asked about meat and she offered us a whole chicken (already dead!) or steak, we went for the latter. There was no beer in sight but you only had to ask, it was stored elsewhere. We bought a bag of charcoal for the BBQ and we were set for dinner. Considering this small community is a long way from anywhere and cannot be accessed without enduring gravel roads we had good telephone reception, good internet and English spoken movies - High Noon with Gary Cooper, a classic - Do not forsake me oh my darling! We waited for the temperature to drop from roasting to baking and went for a walk into the hills behind our Cabana, the cold beer went down a treat when we returned. BBQ time, with just a bit of paper and cardboard to get the Barbie going it was a struggle. With just a couple of small coals glowing I resorted to holding a couple of large pieces of charcoal over our camping stove to get them started - success. The steak sizzled as the sky glowed red. A day later Donna read on the internet to be careful in this area when it goes dark because of wolves! I'm glad I wasn't aware of this at the time, I ended up cooking by headtorch as the steak so thick. A feast of a meal with steak left over for Draco's breakfast. We locked ourselves in, not that we felt unsafe but we certainly felt remote! We weren't looking forward to moving on tomorrow, we wanted to stay here longer but already had our next cabana booked further south on Ruta 40.