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19/12/2010
Surprisingly, we weren't being hoarded into metal boxes like we had originally thought. Instead, it was hard wooden seats and jam-packed with locals and their gear.
I was on-off sleeping from 4am until half 5 when we actually set off. And then came the most horrible, filthy, sweaty, greasy experience we have had yet, cramped in with REALLY bad-smelling locals. Really bad....and often you'd be able to get brushed by some of the sweaty bodies around you....
Looking out of the window, there was a lot to see. Nice countryside, big hills and mountains, some really odd-looking, villages and many people along the way in their homes or surrounding the train trying to sell you mangoes, bananas, chicken, beans, rolls, mangoes, mangoes, mangoes. Oh and more mangoes. I bought several rolls for like 10p and soft drinks from the guy on the train selling drinks for 30p.
Jack had a surprise, at one point I told him to turn around and he literally put his head on the boob hanging out of a woman's top as she was breastfeeding her child. Her tit was literally on his shoulder and I couldn't help but giggle. Welcome to Mozambique!
We even witnessed a guy jump out the window who was sat next to me, and then, at the next stop he jumped back on the train sweating buckets! He had obviously been doing some dodgy deal as he brought the guy opposite us a big bag of something!
Ten-and-a-half hours of torture was never-ending and I mean that in the sense that there were so many stops towards the end! Then in Nampula, we were queing again to get out of the gates! Walking around searching for hostels, most in the Bradt guide had gone or closed down. One was down a dodgy back alley! So we had to settle for a 24-quid-a-night hotel. Double bed between us, Portuguese TV, that was luxury to us all of a sudden.
Went out for some food and realised how huge the Indian influence was here. We ate in an Indian cafe/restaurant, fattening up with burgers and pizzas as we were starved. Also tried some dodgy maize-milk drinks like milkshake from this shop called Oasis. They had three sections - drinks, bakery and groceries. Spoilt for choice on drinks and thirsty, we opted for these minging milkshake things and water, but then when I dumped my bottles in the bin with a fair bit left, some kid took them out of the bin and started drinking them! He was happy, but this homeless looking guy then opened the bin and looked at me like I had ruined his life!
Bed at 8pm....was....very....much....needed.
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