After a night's worth of good sleep the train pulls into Danang about 6 in the morning on the 19th. We will need to take a one-hour bus ride south to Hội An. The damn taxi driver taking us to the bus station scammed us I am sure of it, it can't cost $5 to drive four kilometres. a******. We are well prepared though for the next stage. The local bus costs 10.000 dong on paper, but they always overcharge tourists. And yes, we are no exception.

We get on the bus, get ushered into the back seat quite hard-handedly and we are demanded 60.000 for the ride for the three of us. Double the price. Obviously the guy wasn't prepared to encounter opposition as he, made us sit, hoping we wouldn't see him handing 50.000 to an utterly surprised old lady, then consequently taking it from her as if to show, that yes, she paid 60.000 for the bus. And the woman was just giving this really "I have no idea what the hell you are doing" look. But ah! We have 'Lonely Planet', a moto driver told us it is 10.000 to Hội An, plus there is a HUGE sign inside the station saying the same 10.000 price. We try to argue with him - friendlily, but he won't budge and keeps demanding double the price. So we get off the bus, refusing to pay the 'exorbitant' amount asked for. Just as we sit there contemplating what to do; the taxi is too expensive, waiting for the next bus for about an hour and trying again is pretty pointless, the Vietnamese guy appears out of nowhere and agrees to take us for 15.000 each. Ha! We win! Partly. He lost face on the bus, being rude to foreigners in front of everyone. Not like it's any difference of paying 25ct more, but it's principle! I would argue about 10ct out of principle if it were needed!

Ms. Kitty! Poor Ms. Kitty! Broken, maimed, I forgot her on the train. My one true companion, she has been left behind. I am so very very sorry. But fear not, for you have been replaced by Pink Flower. You shall not be forgotten!

We arrive, check into a very friendly hotel and after having some food head out for the highlight of Hội An. Tailors, and suits! We walk around the city, check out the three best tailors, but finally end up at the first one. As is usually the case. We have the expert help us decide on the style, the cut, all essential parts of the dress. We pick the fabric, the colour, both of the suit and the two shirts we order at the same time. Later on, after measurements, as I chat a bit with Michel we see the head-tailor talk to the woman who owns the place. She looks exactly like the w****-madam from Bangkok. But that's not important. What is, is that we could see her eyes just pop out of her head, a huge smile appearing on her face, and suddenly turning very, very happy. Yes. There are two foreigners here, dressed in absolutely ragged garments - my shorts torn, sandals worn, Michel's shirt full of holes - and they buy two suits. And not any, but ones with the most expensive fabric. No wonder she's happy. The tailor should be happy as well, as I felt him touching me all over, his hands sliding down my butt more than necessary. Let him have his fantasy...

Hội An is a beautiful little town. The old historic centre is protected, the streets, the facades look exactly the same as they did in the 19th century. It is a bit like Luang Prabang, tranquillity emanating from every stone, making you forget the frantic pace of life. At night, the town glows with the soft light of lanterns hung out over doorposts. Only the restaurants could be better. Hội An is very tourist-oriented and many locals know this. Having dinner the first night we have met the first ever unfriendly waitress in Vietnam. No. In whole of Asia in fact. It all starts when we order our drinks and I ask for ice cubes to go with my tonic. I get this weird look from her. Then I order fish in clay pot and ask her if the accompanying rice could be an extra large portion. She basically falls out against me, saying "I already give you free rice, if you want more, you buy". Ok, fair enough. But when I look at the menu, and see that a single bowl of rice is 19.000 dong!! I'm not paying that for plain rice. So I order another meal... she should be happy. Of course the tonic I get is just a can, no glass, ice nor lemon. When I point this out you can clearly see she hates me. The meal's ok actually but as comes to collect the bill, man! She sits down on the free chair at our table of four and as we count the money - paying separately - she just grabs it from our hands, holding it impatiently, waiting for the full amount. What the hell? I yank it back from her hands. b****. Never seen anyone so rude before.

We have a few days in Hội An, waiting for the suits to be done. No need to rush. We visit the beach on a bicycle, laze by the sea. Beautiful. On the way back we bump into Lee as we overtake him. Heh. Now there are three of us to do the tour. What tour? For a while now, I think ever since Laos, we've heard these great stories about the Top Gear tour. The most beautiful visit through Vietnam is to buy/rent a motorbike and just cruise down along the coast from one side to the other. While that is too much for us, a short section is doable. I've been really set about doing this. From Hội An to Huế, a mere 220 kilometres is the most gorgeous one. Everywhere in this town 'Easy Riders', 'Free Riders' advertise themselves as guides for the tour. No idea though why they charge $50 a day, so expensive, we can just as well do this on our own. As we talk about what to do, what to visit, one of these guides sits down next to us. Obviously I ask him which way is the best to go, what we can or should see in two days, etc. But just asking for information... he thinks differently; smells a customer and starts explaining everything, showing photographs, references, etc. We can hardly get away and have to promise him to call tomorrow and let him know what we decided. Of course we'll not do so, but he doesn't know that yet :)

He did tell something interesting. Asking him how big his bike is, he tells me it's only 135cc. Very small. Apparently the Vietnamese government regulates the size of the engines, and only the military can go above 150cc. Communism. Love it. Also, in the past, there were coins of 5000 dong. People were using these all the time at fizzy drinks dispensers, buying coke, 7-up, miranda, etc. A few years ago Coca Cola changed their prices, upping it to 10.000 dong. So long 5000 coins, welcome 5000 paper bills. That is why the 5000 dong bills all look new, the 2000, 1000 all like crap. Love it! A country's monetary policy determined by the price of cold drinks!