So I got the bus to Ramallah on Friday morning with a German girl from the hostel. It was only an hour or 2. We found the hostel and dumped out bags before heading for the Yasser Arafat museum. We got a bit lost and ended up getting a lift with a couple of local guys. The museum was rather harrowing and gave such a good insight into the history of the Israel-Palestine conflict, which sadly was largely thanks to us British who had the mandate to control Israel after WW2 and decided it would be a good idea to introduce the Jews and turn it into a Jewish nation, therefore, undermining the original Arabs who lived there! I did not know much about the conflict and the museum was obviously sympathetic to the Palestinian side, but I left feeling sympathy for the Arabs and disgust and contempt for Israel and the Jews! They literally massacred 1000s of Arabs to take control of a land that wasn't theirs! And continue to stamp their authority with totally unreasonable rulings.
I got a falafel and salad wrap for £1.30- Palestine is much cheaper than Israel! Back in the hostel I got chatting to an Argentinian and we had a walk around Ramallah. Then spent the night chatting with a mix if nationalities!
Saturday:
We arranged a tour of Bethlehem and then Hebron through the hostel with the Argentinian and a German guy. There was some dispute about prices when we got picked up, but we resolved it after a while. In Bethlehem we visited the nativity church, where obviously Jesus was "born". We saw the wall that divides the Terrorities, some great, meaningful graffiti on it! Then we called at a refugee camp, which has been there so long it is more like a town! But Hebron was really amazing!!! It's a city in Palestine divided into H1 and H2, where H1 is under Israel control and H2 is Palestinian (although still ruled by Israel). Israel pays Zionist Jews to live there just to make a point that they still have control and they have stopped access for the Arabs to many of their main trade streets, etc. Indeed, the Arabs have had to put up nets over their markets as the Jewish settlers were throwing rocks and bottles and urine out of their windows on to them! We were really lucky, as on a Saturday the Jews are bought out of their area and taken on a tour of H2 with an escort of 100s of armed soldiers!! Note that the Arabs are not allowed in H1 and this is purely a propaganda exercise to show Israel is still in power! It was like being in a war zone, but amazing and very sad to witness! They have international agencies also watching with cameras to show that the world is watching and stop the Israelis being too aggressive, there are many historical cases of kids getting shot and over-zealous soldiers beating Arabs for no real reason. We heard the Jews saying that we were antisemitists because we were standing with the Arabs, who have to ask the Army permission to walk their own streets during this time.
Massive drama when we arrived back about 9 and my card wouldn't work in various banks! The Argentinian lent me money to pay for the tour luckily! Streets were full with celebrations as it was the final of Arab idol and a Palestinian won!
Sunday:
A girl in the hostel suggested I try a different bank, which thankfully worked- such a relief, it's horrible to be stuck with no money!
Me and the Argentinian headed for Jericho (still Palestine) but at the bus station got offered a taxi for 16 shekels each (only 4 more than the bus). However, on arrival in Jericho I gave him my 16 and he started shouting "sixteen! Sixteen!", turns out his English was not so good and he wanted 60!! My bag was in the boot and so as we argued I couldn't get it! But then a couple of staff from the hostel come out and the argy rescued the bags! I think it was a genuine mistake, but 60 shekels is a lot! In the end, we paid 30 each and the hostel owner paid 20, which was nice of him! The hostel was lush- more of a B&B on a little farm! Jericho is one of the lowest places on earth and so was nice and hot and the scenery is spectacular! Rolling sandy hills and canyons!! We walked into the centre and got food- so much falafel!!! Back in the hostel we chatted with a few people and had a chilled night!
Monday:
The free breakfast was amazing- fresh hummus, cream cheese, pitta, omelette and fresh veg!! Then we'd met a guy who'd offered to show us the sights today, so he picked us and a Aussie lady and yank guy up and drove us to a beautiful canyon with a monastery built in the rock face- we had a good walk! Then to the place with Moses tomb. Then to Hishons palace- ruins dating back to 1400s of a grand palace, including some impressive mosaics, you might have heard of the tree of life mosaic that is there! Then to mount Temptation, where Jesus spent 40 days and nights! Again we had a good walk and visited the monastery at the top! In the evening, a young guy at the hostel was offering free massages and...... Well..... Me and the Argy both had one and were laughing about it all night, but I'll spare you the details! A tale to tell!
Despite the complications, I like Palestine and feel guilty going back to Israel!! Free Palestine!!!
Tuesday
We got a ride part way to Jerusalem, then a bus. Then to a hostel in the new part of the city- I'm still with the Argy although we are very different she does amuse me. I went out to explore the new city and the market- more hummus and falafel and then some of the traditional desserts- pastries!
I go to the Dead Sea tomorrow, then to Tel Aviv in the evening where I meet Xavier for a day or two before heading down to Eilat on the Red Sea for some snorkelling and relaxing before the walk! I researched Jordan, but you have to pay to leave Israel and enter, then pay to come back then I will have to go back after the walk to fly to India, so I'd have to pay again! So I figure I will just save it til after the walk!
Hope you are all well!! Xx