I'm back- it's a long one I'm afraid....
Friday night I went to the dining hall at the Kibbutz- such amazing food! It was busy as it's the only evening when everyone in the kibbutz comes to eat but there was no Shabbat rituals or anything. We got a hot drink from the kibbutz cafe. Then Fima showed me the way to the beach and pool for tomorrow as he's working all day. A chilled night- he showed me some pictures of his youth in Lithuania and his daughter. So nice to go to a bed with a real pillow!
Saturday- Fima left about 8.30. I got up and had breakfast in his apartment and watched BBC news. I sorted out my laundry then a girl from Uzbekistan who's studying Hebrew in the kibbutz messaged me and asked if I wanted to join her for lunch. So again I had a nice meal in the dining hall and she showed me around the zoo they have- lemurs, emus, parrots, etc. She invited me to the pool later but I had a nap and then used Fima's computer to book my Jordan Pass (visa and Petra entry) and booked my flight to India. I fly on the 3rd June to Mumbai. I got the flight for less than £200 including luggage. It gives me 3 weeks in Jordan- not sure I'll need that long.
I took a walk along the beach as it got a bit cooler- a lovely, long sandy beach. I made an omelette for my tea but Fima returned about 8 with hummus which he insisted I ate. Then he took me Ceasarana- the Roman ruins place we passed on the walk. It is free to get in at night and so we walked around there. Fima is one of the most kind and generous people I've ever met- it's sad that you question someone's intentions at first- but I genuinely think he is just a lovely man.
Saturday: I was going to get a bus from the kibbutz to the train station after breakfast in the dining hall and Fima making me a pack up for the journey, but he took time off work to drive me and he'd printed out all the times of the trains and everything! He tried giving me the money for the train fare, but I wouldn't take it and I left him £20 (in shekels) on his desk as a thank you as I'd paid for nothing. I got two trains then a bus to near the border, then a short walk. I went through the Israeli side then had to wait nearly an hour for a shuttle to the Jordanian side! But I got through ok! There was nothing there! So I had no option but to get a taxi to Amman, which wasn't cheap but it was a long way and the driver was nice although he spoke barely any English.
It's like being back in Africa- the roads are awful and lined with people selling fruit and veg! I got dropped at my hostel in the centre- it's ok, but not very sociable! I went out for a walk and, again like in Africa, I stand out and so everyone says welcome! But they are friendlier than the Israelis even though not many speak good English and they are a tad pervy. And it's cheap- 60p for a can of diet coke instead of £2! £11 for a hostel with breakfast! Although you get ripped off on the touristy things, as is everywhere! I visited the ampitheatre- roman ruins in the centre of the old city- and the market. All the shops sell knock off stuff- no chance of buying some decent trainers here! I got some knafeh, which is a traditional Arabic dessert- it's cheese with a light pastry and syrup sauce- it's different but very nice (I won't be losing weight too quickly). I discovered that there is a Jordan Trail- 650km! So I spent much time desperately searching the internet for possible ways to do at least a section of it- it's not marked so I don't think I could do it alone and I chucked away my tent and sleeping bag :(
Monday: a great breakfast- omelette, salad, cake, etc. Then I headed out and walked to the Jordan Museum- it includes all the artefacts from the Neolithic period and through history, including some of the Dead Sea scrolls! It's interesting that they only refer to Palestine, so even when talking about places in Israel they still refer to it as Palestine and you can buy lots of Palestinian souvenirs in the shops- a show of Arab solidarity I guess! Then I walked to the Citadel- an area on top of a hill in Central Amman that is full of ruins dating back to the Roman times and great views of the city! Then to the ampitheatre where I went in and looked at a couple of museums there! I also saw the nymphaeum- an old roman fountain in the centre. Then I went in search of a renowned restaurant I'd read about and got totally lost, so walked for miles! Eventually got my falafel, hummus, pitta and salad, including a bottle of water for £2.10! It was worth the walk! So I fitted a lot into my first day in Jordan. Spent the evening reading, as not many people in the hostel!
Tuesday: I arranged to go on a trip the hostel offered that covered the sights in Northern Jordan. I hate doing organised trips but Jordan is very difficult to get around as the public transport is almost none existent and alone I cannot afford taxis or rent a car. There was me and 4 Aussies- two solo young guys and a mother and son. A long drive, then we stopped at Um Qais ruins- some pillars, rocks, etc, from the roman time. Then to Ajlun castle- a big castle on a hill. Then to some church with a statue of Mary that is famous cos she was "found" to be blinking and crying blood a few years ago- do the people really believe this s***?! We saw the priest leaving in a nice Porsche, so those "tears" have done him well! Then to Jerash- the highlight of the day- it's a huge ancient city of ruins. It was nearly 3pm and we were hungry but despite passing 100s of places the driver insisted we go to a restaurant at the site- this is why I hate organised trips. It was meant to be a buffet for 10JD (£11), but we weren't happy so they did it for 8 and 6 for me as I'm a veggie, including water. It was ok! Then we walked around the ruins- it is probably one of the most underrated sites I've ever visited, it should be better known. But I must admit, I've seen enough ruins to last me a lifetime and unless you're really interested in ancient history then Jordan doesn't have much else to offer! We got back about 7. I took a walk and got more knafeh, then sat in the hostel reading and chatting a bit to an Aussie girl in my room- I've only met Aussies since I got here! Where are all the Germans?
Wednesday: my mission for today was to buy new shoes after the demise of my walking shoes and rapid deterioration of my cheap, Palestinian Abibas's. So after the hostel breakfast I got a taxi to Taj Mall- it was like being in a different country to the rest of Jordan- so modern and every designer and high street name you could imagine! It is unaffordable to most Jordanians (and me) so it was almost empty, except some glamorous, stereotypical western wives. I hate shopping, but walked around this vast centre- clothes in H&M and Next were more expensive than we'd pay in England. Nothing suitable in the Nike or Adidas store, mainly cos they wanted £120+. But then I found a sport shop selling Merrell hiking shoes for a more acceptable £80 (still heartbreaking, but they should last). I got a taxi back to downtown- only £2- and sat reading in a park for an hour or so then went to the market and got falafel and some fruit. I'm just killing a day before I head to Dana tomorrow. I sat by the ampitheatre for another hour or two reading and watching the world go by- a lot of local kids playing football and a surprising lack of tourists. I had an ice cream and got a new small rucksack- my old one stunk after walking the 1000km with me- god knows what bacteria would have been found on it! A chilled night, I finished my book- The Reader- I only started it this morning but it was very engrossing so add it to your list! The hostel is almost empty- I have an 8-bed dorm to myself! Apparently Jordan has seen a dramatic dip in tourism over the last few years.
Thursday: I'd arranged to get a lift to Dana through the hostel- initially he wanted 25JD but I got it down to 15. I was with two Ecuadorian lads who were going to Petra, but after a couple of hours they dropped me off en-route. It is a stunning place- Dana is a tiny, stone village on the edge of a valley! It's a big national park around here and it is beautiful! I'd paid for a tent, but they gave me my own room- again because it's quiet. I dumped my stuff and headed out for a mini hike; crossed paths with a speedy, long, black snake; found an impressive blue chameleon; read and dozed under a tree for a bit; got a bit lost and come back where I sat on the terrace chilling for the rest of the afternoon- never failing to be amazed by the view when I looked up. I had dinner at the hostel- a buffet which was pleasant enough and they went through all the local walks you could do. I asked about the walk to Petra, but no one else was up for it- lazy b******s! The hostel manager was super helpful and after making lots of calls said he had found me a guide, but I'd have to carry all my stuff, food and water for the 3 days and 2 nights. Plus, I'd be sleeping under the stars, but he would lend me a blanket! Sounded like a real adventure!
Friday: a quick shower and breakfast in the hostel. Then I got picked up and taken to a nearby town to get supplies- it was quite comical as I was stood in a corner shop trying to decide suitable food- a couple of tins of tuna, pitta bread, tin of veg, apple, nuts, tomato, unrefrigerated cheese triangles, water. Then the car picked up my guide and dropped us down in a valley. I must be the only hiker in the world carrying two rucksacks but no tent, sleeping bag, stove, first aid kit, etc. I do have a 1200 page India guidebook and about enough clothes to dress a Bedouin village- if I was more organised I should have left the unnecessary stuff at the hostel in Amman, as I need to go back there to fly out. The guide speaks very little English and looked at me warily as he said "2 bags?".
We walked through a canyon for most of the day with a stream running through it. Physically it wasn't too tough, but carrying over 20kg extra makes it hard to distribute your weight and balance especially when climbing and slows you down considerably. The hardest part is that the bag on my front stopped me from seeing where I was putting my feet. There were times when we had to climb down steep rocks and he'd go first and I'd pass down the bags then he'd help me down. He had to attach a rope for us to climb down at one point and at others we were climbing down into pools of water and wading hip-deep to the other side. But I loved it! We would occasionally come across local Bedouin guys- my guide seemed to know most of them. We stopped for lunch- an apple and biscuit. Abdullah made a fire and we had tea, then he prayed and we carried on. My poor new shoes got soaked as we continuously cross-crossed this stream, but they dry out quick luckily! About 4 we arrived at an opening in the canyon and there were several groups of local guys sat drinking tea and smoking shesha. Turned out this was our camp for the night- guess I didn't walk so slow! 4 hours to kill before it got dark. I read and washed a bit from a leaking pipe and put on warmer clothes- the other guys left but gave us a donkey with blankets on! The whole situation is so surreal and comical- I never really know what's happening! So we sat and I read and tried to talk to the guide with his poor English. He disappeared for a bit, then come back with wood and after his prayers made a fire. So as it got dark we sat by the fire and had more tea, I ate pitta and cheese. He started making up the blankets and was like "you can sleep here next to me"- I didn't realise he meant on and under the same blankets, haha. So we went to bed under the stars with just a net laying over us to protect from mosquitos and he was teaching me to count in Arabic. Luckily it wasn't cold and he didn't try to touch me- it could have been quite romantic if he was handsome.
Saturday: I slept ok considering, although the donkey was hee-hawing every hour or so through the night and I woke to an invasion of ants in my rucksack that had found my bread! We had more tea- I don't know why it's the British who have a reputation for tea drinking- the Arabs are obsessed by the stuff! We started walking; well, I started walking and Abdullah was on the donkey! Note to self: if the guide gets himself a donkey then it's going to be a tough day!! But he took my small backpack on the donkey and it was much easier just carrying my big bag! It was all climbing this morning as we went up the black mountains, the walk put everything we'd done on the Israeli National Trail to shame- a long, steep climb! But I made it and luckily it wasn't too hot- about 30c and a nice breeze. We sat for lunch and there was a big peak in the near distance and I made a joke about not having to climb that next and he says "yes, we go up my friend!". So we spent the next couple of hours on a continuous incline, but not as rocky. I did feel I took the easy option with the Israeli Trail, so this walk has allowed me to prove to myself that I am capable of carrying my bag, water, food, etc. We didn't see a soul all day, except his brother arrived near the end on some dirt track with more water and bread! We arrived at the camp spot about 5- it's up high on the edge of the mountain so windy and colder than yesterday. My shoulders ached a bit from carrying the heavy bag, but otherwise I was fine. We sat and I read and played him some of my music. We made fire and then went to bed- he made the excuse of it being cold to cuddle me but then I was attacked all night by the most dangerous snake on the mountain- the one eyed variety!! Bloody men!
Sunday- an easier day today with less steep inclines and descents, plus it was cooler! More pitta, cheese and tuna! When we was up a peak he pointed and said "my friend, this is little Petra! I leave you here!". So we got to a road and we said farewell and he went one way and I went the other, without a clue where little Petra was in relation to Wadi Musa- the town I needed! The road was very quiet, but I bumped into a Bedouin kid at a junction and asked which way to Wadi Musa, then when a car finally drove by I tried hitchiking and luckily he picked me up and dropped me directly at the hostel I wanted- it would have taken hours to walk it!! A lovely hostel- cheap and the guy was super impressed by my walk and gave me free coffee- which I forced myself to drink!
What's the gossip people?? Missing you all!!