There were many reasons for our move to South Africa, one,in particular was to put ourselves in a position to easily discover the one continent our extensive travels have neglected.
There are 54 countries in Africa and I've only been to 6! While South Africa is a good 7 hour flight to Morocco, it's a lot closer to most countries, than the UK. The idea is to try and go to 3 new countries each year so that after 5 years we have knocked off 15, taking us to nearly 50% of the continent. With quite a few not getting Foreign Office approval, it's a realistic target!
Our first foray is to Zimbabwe, the much maligned!
Victoria Falls is one of the worlds greatest landmarks, and steeped in history. As an example of my naivety I had only thought of it as that, ignoring the fact that at the point the Zambezi drops 100m it is in the middle of a huge nature reserve!
Our hotel is a safari lodge that sits above two water holes, warthogs meander around the reception, baboons hang in the trees while numerous four legged species have a drink.
We have chosen to come to Viccy as it is where Stuart Clumpas is finishing a two week bike ride from Cape Town that passes through five countries. Planning such a trip has to embrace TIA, this is Africa, a recurring frustration that you soon get used to, and expect. It is two flights, three and a half hours flying time. To get anywhere in Africa from Cape Town involves going through Johannesburg. It also involves visas and when you arrive in Viccy you are confronted by a 100m line, little, or no explanation and the resulting confusion. When you finally make it to the head of the queue, an hour later, the entrance fee varies according to where you are from, needless to say the UK pays more courtesy of a spat between Blair and Mugabwe, but, I can pay in Rand,which saves some money, and, it's a lovely colourful visa. You also need a yellow fever certificate as you are not allowed to fly back to SA from Africa, without one!
It's then a 20 minute taxi, for $30, and we are good to go. Street vendors sell 5 billion Zimbabwean dollar notes to tourists which is why it's Yankee version is much coveted! At the time of our visit there was civil unrest on the streets of Harare, 400kms away, however, the tourist bubble that is Viccy, with a surprising number of Americans, makes for a less distressed economy!
We meet up with a hobbling Stuart who has lost out to an unbalanced bike stand and get dropped off at The Falls. You really need waterproofs as the spray created by the waters 100m fall is huge plumes that soak you, no matter, it's 80F! The weather is sunny and dry, however, unlike Cape Town, there are mozzies everywhere, come nightfall, which involves maleria tablets, mozzies nets and creme!
The falls are spectacular, however, not as much as Iguazzu in Brazil, or Niagra, as you don't get a view from a distance, or get to go up to the falls from the water beneath. This was a good time to visit as the river level is low which means the spray is less. Its wonderful to appreciate geology and how it has shaped the world, this is another example of how spectacular it can be and how its longevity engages the people for centuries.
Later that afternoon, we go for a "sunset cruise" which has me imagining the worst and reluctantly being dragged along. However, a crocodile, or two, lots of hippos basking in the sun, elephants pulling apart trees and a glorious sunset, and I'm thinking, somewhat embarrassed, that was a lot of fuss about nothing! The hotel we have is great, nothing is too much trouble, afternoon tea, complimentary this and that and a great front of house guy, Augustine, who effortlessly made you feel special. He even offered to replace Stuart's bad leg with one of his own, on the proviso Stuart traded his daughter, Lucy, in return!
Reunited with Stuart, we had dinner on a terrace looking over the biggest waterhole. There's a pride of elephant, a pack of hyena.. The bull elephant roars, the hyena titter, it was like being in a Walt Disney cartoon, a very special moment! The following morning, more of the same with a tree full of expectant vultures for company and we are done, headed for the airport and, in my case, the need to do more research and to be less cynical, TIA, after all!