Wednesday 21 August

We accept the offer of a lift back up the hill to Steel Rigg to start our 4th day on the Wall. Today we continue to climb up and down the crags formed by the Whin Sill intrusive dolerite. Between Peel Crags and Highshield Crags we encounter a sycamore tree growing in the gap. This has become something of an iconic image following the Kevin Costner film "Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves" which used the location in the movie.

At 4.8km we reach Housesteads Roman Fort where all the information indicates coffee and sandwiches are available. What it doesn't say is that the cafe is not at the English Heritage museum next to the wall, but nearly 1km away at the National Trust Information Centre next to the highway. The NT run tours around the fort which is administered by EH. Not much love lost between the two groups it would seem. No sandwiches to be had either.

We climb up to 325m on the top of Sewingshields Crags and eat a rather meagre lunch sitting out of the wind in a turret. The Romans constructed a Milecastle every Roman Mile (1.48km) and two turrets between each Milecastle. For our afternoon walk we traverse a largely flat terrain. Five kilometres brings us to a sacred site, a boggy spring where the Celtic deity Coventina was worshipped by the Roman soldier class. The officers had their own god and a temple to Mithras survives, complete with altars and carvings.

As we approach the end of the walk we take time to visit Cilurnum (Chesters) Roman Fort. For another £15 entrance fee (they also want £3 to park your car!) we can inspect the ruins that include a large bath house next to the river and a Commander's residence including a hypocaust (heated floor). After a big day we slowly walk the final 300m to Chester's Bridge B&B. Finding the entrance proved to be a little challenging but we eventually arrive at the back door and a welcome from our hostess Jane. Quite a small room but once we have towels delivered we are good. More than good in fact, as once Jane hears that today is our 37th Wedding Anniversary, two large G&T's appear which go along way to ease any aches and pains.