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Sunday 15 September
Today was our first full day with Insight on their coach tour. We were at breakfast for 7.00am with the suitcases out in the corridor as requested. Busy place the breakfast restaurant buffet when you have two Insight tours that want to leave early. The coach left just after 8.00am, so on time, with us being in one of the front seats for the drive down the freeway to Toledo. We will change seats each day for the rest of the tour. Being Sunday the traffic was light so we arrived around 9.30am
The first stop was on Ctra. Alto at a lookout on the south side of the town, that also gives a great view of the Tagus River. The granite hill that underlies the town makes it a natural fortress as the river wraps around three sides providing a natural moat.
Alejandra was our local guide in Toledo. As traffic is restricted in the Old Town we travel up the hill by escalators. As usual the streets are narrow and confused with cobblestones and granite slabs. This early on Sunday there is not much happening until we reach the main square, Plaza del Ayuntamiento with the Town Hall (Ayuntamiento de Toledo) and Santa Iglesias Cathedral. Rather than the quiet we were getting used to, all we could hear were chainsaws. There was a display or competition of wood carving of large tree trunk sections.
A little further on we find a coffee shop open and stop to use the facilities, buy something from the gift shop or of course a coffee for Tony. On the side of the saucer was a piece of marzipan. Toledo claims to be the origin of this almond confection that also contains sugar and/or honey. It is said that in response to a famine following and abortive attempt to push the Moors out of Castile at the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212, the nuns of San Clamente having ample almonds and sugar created this cooked sweet. Toledo now has European Union recognition of the name "Marzipan de Toledo" but other countries also have claims.
One of Toledo's most famous adopted sons is El Greco (Domenikos Theodokopouslos) who lived in Toledo from 1577 to his death. In a side chapel of the Church of Santo Tome we see what is regarded as possibly El Greco's greatest work, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz. No photographs please.
On the last part of our visit we walk through Santa Cruz, which is known as the Jewish sector, although there are now virtually no Jewish people living in Toledo. In the 12th and 13th Centuries people of the three religions (Jews, Muslims and Christians) lived in peace but in 1492 this changed and the Jews were forced to leave, or convert to Christianity under pain of death. We arrive at the Bridge of Sant Martin (1380) which has 5 arches and is now only open to pedestrians.
Our last stop in Toledo is at one of the metal working factories that feature Damascene Jewellery and high quality swords. It is said that the skill of Inlaying oxidised steel with gold or silver to create intricate designs was introduced around the 8th Century by craftsmen from Damascus. We then drive south to the city of Granada.
Hotel Vincci Albyzin Granada is on Carrera de la Virgen, a wide tree-lined street that leads down to the Rio Genil. As luck would have it, today is a local Saint's Day commemoration in Granada, of which there are many we are told by Emma. The road is blocked so we cannot drive up to the hotel. A church just a couple of hundred metres up the road is the focus of the festival. But with some persistence, and a helpful police officer, Pedro our driver is able to reverse up the street to our destination Hotel Vincci Albyzin Granada at 5.30pm. The Hotel has lots of marble but is modern and comfortable. We don't have a view out, but being at the back means we won't be troubled by noise.
We head straight out to mingle with the crowds to watch the crowds and festivities. The main event seems to involve lots of speeches by the local dignatories, followed by a parade past the church were a scaffold has been constructed. Groups of mostly women file past, each holding a bunch of flowers that is then attached to the scaffold. At the end of the street a group of tents contain flower sellers who do a great trade, although some with large stocks look a little anxious towards the end of the evening.
Dinner is in the hotel as trying to find somewhere outside would be a challenge.
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