Hi, We arrived in Lijian four days ago, travelling over on the bus with our Chinese-speaking pal Chad (brill person to know out here). After spending almost two hours searching for a (seemingly non-existent) guesthouse which we had had recommended to us (always great fun in the blazing sun with a 20kg bag on your back!) we finally settled for one of the more overpriced rooms (at a scandalous 4 pounds a night!). We are staying in the old town of Lijian which is like a labyrinth of cobbled streets, full to the brim with Chinese tour goups armed with umbrellas (regardless of the weather) and their cameras. The first day here we took a walk round one of the local parks, which was very scenic with waterfalls, a boating lake and great views of the mountains. We fed the fish with popcorn (strange fish) took a rowing boat (briefly) around the lake (hard work that rowing lark) and posed for all the standard photos (ie Dean by the waterfall/ me in the flower garden). We also visited the home of some king who ruled here at some point or other (great views over the town though). In the evenings we have visited the little bars and supped on Dali beer, where we met up with other westerners and traded travel/shopping/ surviving in China tips. the other night we also got to witness some kind of sing-song between two big groups of Chinese people sat in bars at either side of the river. We haven't got a clue what they were singing about, but have picked up a few of the lyrics (though not sure we should repeat them!) Yesterday we went on an overnight tour to Zhongdian where we got to visit the first bend in the Yangtze river, theTiger Leaping Gorge, some sort of ranch, some random (and overpriced) lake and a tibetan monastry. It was quite hard work as everybody on our tour was Chinese and non-English speaking, so we spent half the time wondering where the hell we were going/ where we were/ what time we had to be back at the coach. We ended up simply following the rest of the group (mostly stripe boy and yellow coat woman, as we called them, since they were the easiest to spot). Once again, we were a bit of a star attraction, and many of the Chinese we met along the way asked if they could take our photo. At one point we were posing by a lake, and there were around four or five people lined up to take our picture. We've also noticed that some people discretely (though we know they're at it) take our photographs and even film us (they pretend to point their cameras at the scenery, but i'm onto them!) We stayed overnight in Zhongdian, which is right on the border of Tibet, so we got to see some Yaks and taste tibetan cuisine, which was cool. The place itself was nothing to write home about; we stayed in a nice guesthouse in the ancient town (which, ironically, was still being built!) Well, i've been trying to upload my photos for ages, but these Chinese computers are having none of it! Hopefully, I will be able to get some online soon, or at least before we come home. We are home in just over two weeks and there are definitely some things I am looking forward to. I can't wait to have a bath. a long bath in HOT water. I won't miss the cold showers of Lijian, or the scalding hot showers of Zhongdian, or the little containers of water we had to wash ourselves with in Chiang Mai and Don Det. I can't wait to open my drawers and find clean clothes, as opposed to opening my backpack and searching for anything even remotely clean. I also can't wait to wear some nice clothes, to feel smart. It's all practical trousers, sensible footwear and appropriate necklines out here, and all my clothes are either stained, torn or a few sizes too small from repeated visits to the washing machine. I'm such a fashion icon I am. I also can't wait to get a more healthy and balanced diet. all that goes out the window out here. I've lost all my standards! it's fried food, crisps and as for sticking to five portions of fruit and veg a day...forget it. Actually i'm also looking forward to having some real chocolate, instead of the fake stuff they have out here (which never looks anything like it does on the picture printed on the packet incidentally). A quilt...M&S cookies...a western toilet...bus stations where the staff speak English, produce tickets written in English, and direct you to a platform signposted in English. Yeah, i'm just about ready for home. See you all soon, Claire x