Hi, Only one week to go now so lately have been desperately trying to cram in the nicest bits of Vietnam. Got in from Sapa today which is NW and closeish to China where there's beautiful scenery, amazing hill tribes and colourful markets. The trip there by train takes 10 hrs and the one back today was hell. I decided to go hard seat there and soft sleeper back and almost preferred the hard seat. Got to station and they refused to accept my receipt. When I say refused, I had to spend 1.5 hrs to get someone who would actually look at me. Eventually they give me a ticket but turns out to be a staff closet by the toilet so I got v pissed but still no one cares or even acknowledges there is anything wrong. 'No speaky English' when they've just been speaking with an American couple. After 2 hrs of me in non violent protest fueled by some v powerful rice wine (this stuff is the business I'm telling you - 30 cents- and probably caused blindness), following her, talking, singing and generally causing much trouble (especially when I get out my hammock and go to put it up in the corridor) she tells me to follow her and takes me to a nice 4 person sleeper room with 3 beds empty. 'Money money' are the last words I hear before I swear violently and offer a few rude gestures. But this is all normal for them as they don't do anything unless you make a fuss. But Sapa was so beautiful and I had a really cool time there. Especially the maket which, 100km away, I went on a mountain motorbike trail with a german guy where all the locals wore traditional dress and there were some crazy things to buy. Tomorrow I'm off to halong bay on a 2 day boat trip which I'm looking forward to. Hopefully will be seeing eberyone soon, Chris