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How many people (travellers or otherwise) go ga-ga at the prospect of visiting Lima? Somewhere between very few and none. There's a running commentary on favourable (and otherwise) destinations in hostels everywhere we go, and Lima is hot on no one's lips. In fact, people have actively warned us away from spending time here, as "there's nothing to do". This is one of the biggest travesties in the world of travel, and I'm going to spend a couple of hundred words convincing you that Lima is - in fact - spectacular.
What is there to do in Lima? The town centre itself is a hub of museums and architecturally significant churches. There is a huge compound of pre-Incan ruins in the middle of the city (still being excavated), and more Incan ruins a half hour south of the CBD to explore. In San Isidro there is a park studded with 400-year-old olive trees that covers over 20 city blocks of land. The coastal edge of the city is strewn with grassy parks and pathways sitting atop the staggeringly high cliff-faces; perfect for runners (Sjane) and sunset picnics (Marc). It's warm year round and literally NEVER rains (built on a desert - take that England!). The people are vibrant, friendly and COOL! Not like those pretentious w***s in Seattle with vintage polaroid cameras hanging around their necks and a doobie hanging out the corner of their mouth. Limeños (locals) are more likely to own a skateboard or rollerblades for practicality, stop for you to cross the road and laugh freely. If you want a bit of culture shock, venture out into the outer suburbs and see how the other half live. Orherwise, spend your time in the tourist hubs of Miraflores and Barranco (a.k.a. inside the bubble); a thriving and enigmatic mix of parks (complete with daily musical or acrobatic performances, and an army of resident cats), boutique stores and (most importantly) restaurants.
Now the food. This place is a mecca for foodies! When I told Roberto we were hoping for some decent food after the despairingly bland fare of Bolivia (would you like rice with potatoes or potatoes with rice?), he told me we were coming to the right place for some gastronomy. Little did I know how true that would be!
Our food explorations began in Barranco, where a cafe delivered juices and teas any bar in Melbourne would be proud of. Follow that with an assortment of beef heart skewers, lomo saltado risotto and a couple of Peruvian-Chinese fusion dishes featuring udon noodles and fried rice; and you're bound to go to bed happy. Wash it all down with a couple of Pisco Sours (the local signature cocktail) and you'll be in a dreamy food coma.
We followed this with a picnic overlooking the sunset atop the aforementioned cliffs. Watching the sun go down, we slowly drained one of our stashed bottles of Argentinian Torrontes and stumbled home; only to head back out again for churros stuffed with vanilla cream and nutella, and some FroYo. Another happy food (and wine) coma.
La Mar Cebicheria is one of celebrity chef Gaston Acurio's many restaurants in town, and it specialises in ceviche (seafood cooked in acid e.g. lemon juices and the like). I had been aching to try ceviche since before I got sick in Mexico, and let me tell you: this place delivered. The ceviche Nikei was our favourite - tuna with soy, tamarind and leche de tigre; topped with avocado and red onion. Yum! The derrumbado de chirimoya (another local speciality featuring custard apple) for dessert just widened our smiles even further.
The rest of our time in Lima was punctuated with a variety of other awesome food-related experiences. The local markets delivered some of the biggest and best mangoes we had ever eaten. The sangucheria around the corner (La Lucha) delivered burgers and fries that incited drooling, as well as coffee and juices worthy of Michelin Stars. Pollo a la brasa (charcoal chicken)! The wings! Picarones (doughnuts drizzled with molasses)! And the avocados! Dont even get me started on those!
I am in love with Lima. I don't know whether it just seems more vibrant and exciting because I've just been in a dull stupor of Bolivian altitude sickness for the preceding week, or if it really is as good as it seems. I know one thing for sure. I'll be back.
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