Where was I... We stayed a night in Uyuni which was actually much nicer than it had initially appeared - especially when we found out there was hot water. It was our first real taste of a Bolivian town and we were shocked at how many old ladies there are walking around in traditional dress with their big skirts and bowler hats - we'd expected one or two to please the tourists but it seems like it's actually still a popular outfit. After a much-needed shower, we ...

After a less than refreshing overnight bus, we arrived in Vicuna ridiculously early and made our way to the hostel where, thankfully, the guy took pity on us and let us check in right away. After a quick nap, Gerard dragged me to a bug museum in town which featured display cases full of all the enormous spiders, scorpions, beetles, etc that we can expect to encounter in South America. Already feeling itchy and uncomfortable, I reached the back of the room only to...