We landed in Kupang as the sun was going down and negotiated a taxi to the nearest 'tourist information' which turned out to be Hotel Lavalon, owned by Edwin. Edwin spoke amazing English and was a proof reader for Lonely Planet, what a result! We packed our things into an amazing room on the cliff face with a sea view. Edwin with his wealth of information put us on a local bus the next morning to Kantor Timor Leste with the somewhat hopeful belief that we could secure a next day visa to East Timor. With our now standard lack of planning we had left it to late to get a visa and with our only option a very expensive flight via Bali we called it quits, you win some you lose some. With that the decision was quickly made to head back to Bali in search of a little patch of paradise and some diving, but first an evening stroll along the high street. It was clear that this part of Indonesia was far poorer and less developed than what we had already experience elsewhere, Edwin was quick to explain that the lack of government funding for tourism combined with the restricted visa entry and the isolation of West Timor meant that travellers such as us were few and far between. Not great news for Edwin and his fellow islanders but a nice taste of real Indonesia for us. Back to Bali and straight to Sanur beach with Nusa Lembongan our destination for the morning.