Varanasi train statin was the most welcome of arrivals, straight into a tuk tuk to hotel Ganesha, greeted by two cows and really accommodating staff. Things were looking up. The hotel provided a free guide so we did some brief shopping then headed the the Assi Ghat for food, later returning at night to Varanasi to watch/participate in a Hindu ghat ceremony. It was pitch black as we meandered our way through the winding alleyways towards the Assi Ghat, the blackness was punctuated by a naked flame in the distance, as we approached lightning lit the night sky. As the light began nearing the night sky opened up the reveal brightly dressed Hindu worshipers and the odd scattered tourists all taking there seats on the ghat, we listened to the chanting of the monks and the cracking of thunder as stray dogs fought and mosquitoes bit. It was a surreal experience that ended with a bright red dot in the middle of our foreheads and a mouthful of sweet treats.

We awoke at 5pm the next morning and strolled 4 km to the "must see" ghat on our travels we encountered an elderly gentleman who happened to be master of the burning bodies at one of two burning ghats in Varanasi. He disclosed the rituals and believes of his religion and explained that bodies are burned with 360kg of wood and the carcasses thrown to the Ganga where trained snapping turtles and hungry fish finish the job and the circle of life continued. Should you be a young child, pregnant, a holy man, bitten by a cobra or a leper you would tied to a rock and thrown to the Ganga, your body needing no purification by fire. An early morning boat ride the following day produced some great pictures and a visit to the main burning ghat produced a great character, tag line "My job is the burning of the bodies" said whilst tapping his fingers slowly together. Following him we were met by the sight of burning dead bodies and grieving relatives, an atmosphere like non other and one place not easily forgotten.

That evening with an 11:15 train awaiting us we heading to Hotel Surya where two good meals and the use of a swimming pool prepared us for the journey ahead. Varanasi - the highlight of our India trip and a great Farewell..