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Bolivia - described as crazy and wild by pretty much everyone I know who has been there. Have to agree.
Leaving Peru behind was going to be hard anyway, our Inca Trail girlie group had a great last day in Cuzco - taking photos of llamas, more shopping, getting massages and eating lots of yummy food at Jack's cafe. For my last evening we headed to the Inca Grill, eating ceviche and guinea pig (well, it had to be done - was lovely, like crispy duck!) then the girls escorted me to the bus station. Which is where the problems began...
My last South American bus journey was never going to be plain sailing, especially as to Bolivia. This one wins the award for worst journey ever, hands down, over and above the 34 hour mission from Brazil. I'll gloss over the details because everything is fine now and I'm quite alright, but in a nutshell: I was told there was a strike so I couldn't get a direct overnight bus across the border, I'd have to change in Puno. On arriving in Puno (at 5:30a.m.) I was told no buses were going into Bolivia, but I could get a taxi. Happy to take the easy option over the other way suggested, a boat (me and boats, no!) I shared a cab with Karen, a lovely Canadian girl I'd met. All was going fine, until we were met on the road by an angry mob of protesters. Turns out it's not a strike, but a huge protest by gold miners who are determined that no motorised vehicles will go from Peru to Bolivia. Out we get, to begin the "30 minute" walk - not 30 minutes as it turns out, more like 4 hours. With our rucksacks. My aches from the Inca Trail didn't help! Lots of barricades and protesters along the way, a lift on the back of a motorbike, and eventually a ride in the cart of a boy's bicycle and we finally reached the border, sunburnt and exhausted. Never have I been so happy to leave a country. Look for the ironic 'Welcome to Peru' sign in the photos I took.
Crossing over to Bolivia I went straight to Copacabana, where I'd planned to spend the afternoon. Feeling a little weary now Karen and I decided to go straight to La Paz, and jumping in another taxi began to wind our way through the mountains. It was actually really good timing, as late afternoon turned to dusk we saw the most beautiful sunset over Lake Titicaca (the worlds highest salt water lake) - on a penninsular I was able to see the sun setting red, orange and yellow on one side, and the moon rising purple, blue and silver on the other. Made it all worthwhile!
La Paz is a lot of fun, I've made friends with a really lovely girl called Kate from Ireland and we headed out today to the Coca Museum, the witches market (very weird, they sell llama foetuses there) and San Pedro prison. 'Marching Powder', a book written about an Englishman's experiences in the prison, was the first book I read when I started my trip, so it was nice that it was one of the last places I'll visit. No chance of going inside though - too scary! There are all sorts of strange goings on there too, I think the book was just the tip of the iceburg!
Tonight I went for dinner with Kate and Nancy, at Wild Rover - the big party hostel Pat warned me not to stay at. Early night though as I'm headed back to Argentina tomorrow. Busy, busy!
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