So Sucre, the second of Bolivia's capitals and constitutionally, the official one. I have to say that given that capital number one (La Paz), wasn't really to my liking, I wasn't too sure what number two would have in store for us. Granted it was a flying visit re La Paz, but on sight I could see it was a city that required more energy than I had left at this point in our trip. Anyway...

Given that our trip in Bolivia from this point forward would be in the hands of a tour guide and company that had been arranged from the UK before we left, Becky was in a heightened state of, shall we say concern. Handing over the reigns of control was something that would take a little getting used to.

Thankfully our guide only arrived about two minutes late and thus prevented young Rebecca from moving to plan b (although I'm not actually sure what this was). Anyway, like I said, the pick up was successful, followed by a quick check-in. The flight turned out to be swift and on time and the transfer from airport to hotel also went well and upon arrival at our hotel, after a little discussion with the staff, we were eventually given the double room that we should have been given in the first place. To top it all off, we were also given a free room upgrade as well. So all in all, things were looking up after La Paz, but question was, would they remain that way.

Thankfully I'm pleased to report that Sucre was a cracking little city. Big enough to have and keep your interest and small enough to wander and walk about. A little history for you, known as the city with four names, with the most common probably being the White city. This is due to the fact that at least in the centre, the buildings are all white! Although as already stated it's the constitutional capital, that is more to do with history than modern reality. The reason for it's historic position? It was a more amenable place to live for the mining barons of Potosi, but more about that city later.

Ok so given that our time in Sucre was limited, the city tour was our means to getting a broader feel for the city. Although a couple of the things that were on our list of things to see and do were inexplicably closed, we did manage to hit most of the main sites. One highlight being the cemetery, which has the phrase, 'today me, tomorrow you' emplazoned outside the entrance. Amusing. The rest of our time was really just spent mooching about the place enjoying the unexpected good weather.

Next stop, Potosi. Before heading off to Potosi we were once again joined by our tour guide and the man that would be travelling and looking after us for the next four nights, William. Well actually his name is Williams, but that was due to a little mistake of his father. You see at a certain point in Bolivian history, it was fashionable to take a British name as well as a more traditional name in honour of the many British engineers that came to work in Bolivia. Unfortunately, William's dad liked a racing driver by the name of Williams and unbeknown to him, Williams as we all know is a surname, not a first name. So William is in fact really Williams. Most amusing.

Anyway I digress, back to Potosi. The city that more than any illustrates the 'South American story'. Once the centre of the world and the richest city on the planet. With a population outstripping Madrid, London and the city that today calls itself New York. But now a poverty stricken city that has little or nothing to show for it's former glorious past. The reason? A certain mound of earth called Cerro Rico. Basically this mountain contained so much silver that it led to a massive mining boom and according to some is one of the main sources of income that led to the industrial revolution in much of Europe. Of course the Spanish who were the controllers (exploiters) of this rich seam of wealth saw their role best suited to that of overseeing production and so enlisted (enslaved) the local Indian population to do the hard yards. So in the ensuing 200 years, not only did plenty outside of the locals get rich, but 10 million perished in Cerro Rico to enable this wealth creation. Shocking to say the least.

So what's left today? Well not too much really. The mine is still there, but is now worked by local co-ops of miners, but unfortunately in conditions that are prehistoric. There is still silver in them there hills, but of course the quality is not the same and although now not enslaved, the locals aren't making too much either. Oh and outside of that, there are a lot of churches, some of which are now being restored with the help of Spanish money. Oh the irony.

So what did we get up to? Well of course we had to take a trip into the famous Cerro Rico. So all kitted up miners lights and all and with gifts for the miners that still worked there, off we headed with our excitable four foot nothing guide. Now due to Becky's historic asthma issues, the altitude and the general dusty conditions, she didn't go as deep as myself into the mine, but you really didn't need to go that deep to see what God awful conditions these guys were working in. My words wouldn't really do the scenes justice and the pictures that might, are on our proper camera and so can't be uploaded to the blog, but trust me the conditions were shocking. Young lads breaking their backs when they should be at college or doing something else more productive and men of 40 odd (looking like they are 60 odd) no longer going down the mines as their lungs could no longer hack it, now directing certain proceedings above land. It was a fantasic tour, but one which was shocking and didn't leave your mind too quickly.

Quick mention for another highlight of Potosi, the former mint. Given that there was so much silver in the town, Potosi naturally became the location of Bolivia's mint. Of course this job now resides outside of Potosi and indeed of Bolivia. Anyhow, fantastic building, fantastic tour.

So Potosi a fascinating, yet rather sad story. Next stop the Salt hotel.