Clare writes.. just a quickie and it's another 'Wow!' I'm afraid. Cementing an unepected reputation as outdoor adventure chick (when I'm generally and rightly considered more of an indoor person) I saw Milford Sound the hard way. No wussy coach trips and lunch 'cruises' for us, oh dear me no. We got up at the crack of dawn and did a 5 hour kayak trip in the famous fiord - magical lgiht as the sun rose above the highest seacliffs in the world, the brilliant yellow of our craft against the stunningly blue water still as glass, seals swimming alongside.

And Sheila's hands held up under the salt and pressure, and I didn't even cry. Not once. Tihs is really a rubbish picture of the Sound by the way- wait until you see ours - the only trouble is they look so perfect I'll be accused of photoshopping 'em!

Anyhow, we stayed at the Milford Lodge (only backpacker place in 'town' the night before the trip but based ourselves in the lovely Barnyard Backpackers outside te Anau, which I can thoroughly recomend - big cosy en suite wood cabins with tellys and views to die for (or get up early for) and the sound of stags in the night.