Clare writes: There's only one bus a day from Ushuaia back here to Punta Arenas and it's at 5am, so another early start yesterday and another 12 hours on a bus. There are 2 South American bus myths: (1) 200 Indians, all with chickens, and no brakes (2) Argentinian luxury rides with beds for seats and hostess trolleys of food and wine. In my (limited) experience neither is true. Only one of the Argentinian/Chilean buses we've ridden on had anything like reclin...

Clare writes:Tonight we're not quite at the end of the world, but as close as either of us have been. Punta Arenas is still a few hundred km from the southernmost town in the world (Ushiaia) but we're on the banks of the Magellan Straight within sight of Tierre del Fuego... even our hostel's called El Fin del Mundo (the end of the world).We took a flight down here - 2000km or more - to save stress and time (but, obviously not money!) but frstratingly didn't get a...