Clare writes: We had a pleasant Sunday in Puerto Natales (blue skies and sunshine followed early snow) walking along the shores of the Ultima Esperanza sound (Last Hope Sound) accompanied by many of the dogs of the neighbourhood. Surprised to see flamingos freezing their toes alongside the local white swans with black necks. I meant to say that on the way to Puerto Natales it felt like we were on a bus to the end of the world - bleak frosted landscapes beyond ...