Clare writes:
We had a pleasant Sunday in Puerto Natales (blue skies and sunshine followed early snow) walking along the shores of the Ultima Esperanza sound (Last Hope Sound) accompanied by many of the dogs of the neighbourhood. Surprised to see flamingos freezing their toes alongside the local white swans with black necks.
I meant to say that on the way to Puerto Natales it felt like we were on a bus to the end of the world - bleak frosted landscapes beyond human civilisation. Then 4 school children got on the bus. One leaned against me and I felt how cold she was through both our many layers of clothes and gave her a corner of my seat. They all got off about half an hour later in the middle of nowhere. Extraordinary that people live out here.
From there we had an early dart for the 7.30am bus to El Calafate... tronking along the road from our hostel with our backpacks in a biting wind and sleet to the bus office.
It was a five and a half hour trip along icy roads, across a seriously snowed-in Argentinian Border and into the vast, cold wilderness of the Patagonian pampas - not entirely a wilderness as there are sheep and cattle farms here - we saw them being herded by distant gauchos on horseback. The wide open spaces were reminiscent of Australia apart from the snow-capped mountains in the distance.
El Calafate is a bit of a tourist haven, but seems very nice and we're in a great hostel - a big Hostels International place with... bliss!... underfloor heating and good facilities, so we'll probably stay here 3 or 4 days before heading south again.