So, the smoke took a while to lift so in order to get any sightseeing in we had to escape back to the Kootenay Park, which is what we did. We paid a visit to Dog lake. This was a 2 and half km hike through glorious woods again until we reached a stunning green watered lake which houses trout. A number of folk were also on this hike and most of them walking their dogs. It may be interesting to note that in most places in Canada that we have encountered, dogs are allowed as long as they are kept on leash and poops are scooped. So wherever we go, we encounter dogs. Anyways, back to the lake…we lunched under one of the trees in the tranquillity of untouched nature and then started our way back to the car. We met a couple of birdwatchers on the way and they pointed out a woodpecker to us. I was fascinated and watched this bird doing its utmost to scare every insect abiding under the bark of that tree to come scurrying out to be its dinner. The birders then informed us that we are most privileged indeed to see this particular woodpecker since it was a female American 3 toed woodpecker which is a very scarce bird to be seen in the wild. They also explained that the woods and forests are silent since most Canadian birds migrate, but during the summer months the noise in the forests is extreme.

So, the time to leave our luxury came sooner than I would have liked and we started making our way to go camping at Lake Louise, since all other accommodation was again fully booked!!!! 2 nights in that tent again under snow-capped mountains surrounding the entire area. En route we popped in to see Marble Canyon. Not a strenuous walk and very beautiful gushing waters through magnificent crevices and very powerful waterfall feeding the river. However, there was ice glistening on EVERYTHING….a foreboding of what our camping experience was to be….

We then did the semi-killer hike up to Stanley glacier. Awesome views of the mountains and valleys with hazy mists creating a very mysterious ambience. It was a lovely climb and I thank God every time I use my walking pole…even Graeme has begun to realise the difference a walking pole makes. Once we reached the end of the maintained trail I could go no further, but I could hear the glacier calving behind the mountain we were facing, And so Graeme took himself off for a further hour's walk to see what he could see and all that he could see…..was some stunning views of the glacier. I was entertained by a good number of chipmunks scurrying around me and over the rock surfaces….they really are very cute little creatures and also way too quick and busy to be photographed. Some were curious enough to stand on two legs to see whether I would offer them anything but as soon as I moved to focus for a photo they were scurrying off again in too many directions for any feature on my new cwamera. After about ½ an hour, the sun disappeared behind a cloud and this little Vrystater felt the freeze set in. Man, it was cold without the sun. So, the clouds played intermittent freezing games with me, so that by the time Graeme returned I was more than ready to return to the car. I was not a happy chappy!!!! However, the walk had been worth it and I truly did enjoy seeing and hearing Stanley roaring out the pain of separating from great chunks of ice as they pulled away from him.

So, onwards to the camping grounds. We set up camp, this time lining our tent with newspaper as advised by Mary-Anne as well as packaging boxes which I sent Graeme to find at Panorama after remembering the street dwellers of SA. The space blankets were spread out over us. I pulled mine over my head to stop the cold, cutting breeze from shaving my cheeks, but my feet were ice blocks….so even though I was really warmly dressed, I did not sleep as a result of the ice blocks at the end of my legs. I also did not bank on condensation on the space blankets and was most disconcerted to have ice cold drops of water dripping onto my face in the dozing moments of the middle of the night. I was so annoyed that I tossed the stupid thing aside saying that it wasn't serving much purpose anyway. At least we did not have the icy claws of mother earth seeping through the underside of our mattress. But was I oh so wrong about the space blankets…once tossed aside…then did I get vellllly cold!!!! Next night, I filled my water bottle with hot water (thanks to my beeg sista for the idea) and popped it into the bottom of my sleeping bag - warm as toast for the whole night.

Graeme kept his promise to take me back to Moraine lake, but we were about 15 minutes too late and found the parking area full, so drove out again and made our way to the Lake Louise Gondola for a trip up the mountainside to gaze upon glorious views of the countryside around and beneath us. We even scored a huge eat-as-much-as-you-like buffet English breakfast in the deal….so good for these camping, frugal travellers. After this we went back to Bow Lake…this time to do the walk around the lake to reach the Bow Glacier falls….stunning, stunning, stunning….such tranquillity and beautiful views all around the lake…and then the proverbial pumpkin enters the scenario…..some wooden stair type platforms strategically positioned to help the hiker up an incline that I would rather not have faced…nevertheless, I did it and then completed the next 1 ½ km over rocky riverbed to reach the falls spilling out the guts of the glacier to feed the lake below. I sat on a couch of rocks for about half an hour taking it all in and then started my way back again. Reaching the lake again was like a gift from Father to remind me of His glory and wonder. Graeme and I stopped many times along our walk back to the car to take it all in.

Back to camp and into bed after a wonderful hot shower….and then it rained….not a lot, but enough to make me wonder what on earth I am doing!!!!! So, up in the dark and off we tootled back to Moraine…..oh glorious Moraine…officially now my veriest, mostest, favorouritestest place on earth. And here I saw a marmot - it cheeped its dissatisfaction at being disturbed so early in the morning, thus drawing attention to itself. We spent about 2 hours simply wondering around the lake, soaking in the soul-refreshing comfort of its beauty before returning to camp to pack up.

From Lake Louise we forwarded ourselves in the direction of Banff - again the only accommodation we could find was here at the YWCA Hotel in separate male and female dorms (it was the only thing we could afford). En route we popped into Sunshine Village and took a bus up to Sunshine Meadows - again a skiing lodge - and then took the ski lift up to the most amazing views. So different to anything else we have seen thus far, with yellow Tamarak pines spread across the entire valley, but just as awesome and inspiring. Zillions of photos later……..

However, from the lift the 5 odd km walk went downhill fast and forever, and with every step I was thinking of how my little leggies would have to overcome the uphill again. We did a loop walk around 3 lakes…Rocky Isle Lake, Grizzly Lake and Pharyx Lake. All beautiful and untouched and lovely. Lots of hues of yellow surrounded the countryside and were in stark contrast to the forest greens and aquamarines of everywhere else. And then, just as we were reaching the end of the walk back to the ski lift it began to snow….just a couple of pellets at first, but then full on snow flurry….this SA Vrystater girl went bazilly!!!! I built a little French snowman on the bench outside the coffee shop, I danced in the snow, I caught snow in my hands and my mouth….I just had a glorious time!!! But all good things must come to end and the time came for us to catch the bus back down to the car and to make our way to the "Hotel" in Banff.

Again, we have walked the streets, eaten fries on the sidewalk, photographed the surroundings, etc. But biggest surprise of all for me was when I took the groceries back to car after making supper, a reindeer with the biggest wrack of horns simply walked past me under the trees in the car park….again,,,no camera and insufficient light had I had a camera. Just too much to behold…too much blessing….too much spoiling….so, so grateful for the honour of being able to see so much of the world!!!!

Till next time folks!!!