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We have made it across The Gibb River Rd and think we have probably just had the best two weeks of the trip (an early call we know). A special thanks to Corey (Cwey) for his brilliant advice on what to see and what not to bother with....you're a star!
We left Broome on Day 43 and headed to Derby, but after a very quick visit (1 hr), decided we'd seen enough and that it was time to hit The Gibb. We were all upbeat about the adventure that lay ahead and had a great time singing and acting out "you do the hokey pokey" in the car! Mark spotted a gravel pit about 40kms along The Gibb River Rd and it made for a perfect bush camp.
We were on the road by 830am on Day 44 and eager to explore our first Gorge of The Gibb River Rd (I don't know how many there are - but there's plenty!). We were in at Windjana Gorge by 10am and enjoying the sights - the most exciting being the freshwater crocs that the kids thought were great. We arrived at Silent Grove campground by 3pm and enjoyed a peaceful camp (just us and 'jenny' our generator!). Some fellow Victorians arrived with their Tru Blu camper at tea time and set up beside us - they were to become travelling companions of sorts over The Gibb.
Day 45 was great - our walk into Bell Gorge was followed by a swim - a pretty cool one but gorgeous (see pic of Mark and Tess). Tess opted not to get in and played with frogs she'd found in a pool instead. We had steak sangas in the carpark (pic of chef) before moving on to Manning Gorge where we had planned to spend a couple of nights - a recommendation from Cwey.
After a cruisy start to Day 46 we set off on our walk into Manning Gorge - the backpack was full with towels, water, snacks and cameras. The walk starts by swimming across a river, where there are foam boxes on either side to allow people to float their goodies across - very cool ! The kids struggled on the long 2km windy, rocky, hilly walk in. Tess fell a couple of times and was once again was piggy-backed by Mark on a few occasions. We made it to Manning Gorge and it was absolutely stunning - we all enjoyed a swim across to the falls and had a thundering shower underneath. We made it back to camp at 2pm for a late lunch, and Mark cooked up some chicken and sweet corn soup (for lunches over the next few days), before venturing back down to the river for a fish (without success).
Day 47 was an early start and we managed to make it out of camp by 7am - heading for King Edward River campground (heading up the Mitchell Plateau), and we were surprised with the progress we were making. We stopped in at Drysdale for a cuppa and snack and were at King Edward River campground by early arvo (again down the back with 'jenny'). The only issue we had to deal with was Tess - she had clearly got a little bored in the car and decided to cut her hair with the scissors that were in the pencil case! She had been whinging an hour earlier that she 'just wanted long hair' (many of you have heard it before), and then snipped a fair chunk of fringe and hair to the left hand side of her face. It's lucky it's curly as she hides it well - but the fringe no longer drops in gorgeous curls.... it bounces up like a bad 1980's blow wave. We arrived at camp and had an afternoon walk and swim in the river before heading back to cook on the fire (gas bottle ran out at Manning Gorge - doh!).
Day 48 was our big trek up to Mitchell Falls - and again the road surprised us. We'd heard such horror stories of this drive to Mitchell Falls, but we sailed over the corrugations at 50kms and slowed every now and again to negotiate rocks - the most annoying thing by far was choking on the dust of those that beat us out of camp (we were on the road by 620am). We had decided to treat the kids to a helicopter flight up here, so booked our 'pick up' for 1pm. We were walking in by 10am and had our first stop and swim at Little Merten Falls (see family pic). We continued on and found ourselves crossing lots of little streams that the kids enjoyed stopping and paddling in (makes for a slow walk!), before coming across Big Merten Falls - no swimming at this one! The final 500m to Mitchell Falls was great - the Falls were nearby and the 'pick up' time of 1pm was approaching ! The rangers had not yet fully pegged the walk across the river to give everyone access to the other side where you view the Falls, however everyone was crossing at a spot were four pegs stood. We did the same - with Max just upstream of Mark and Tess on Mark's back (I had the cameras). The current was strong and the rocks were a bit tricky but we made it across (and back) unscathed. And it was sooooo worth it - the Falls were magnificent (see family pic) and absolutely worth the effort of our 2 hr drive (only about 75kms in distance) and 2 hr walk in. And then the big moment arrived - our $440 six minute family helicopter ride (I can hear you all saying we're mad). The back doors of the choppers had been removed to allow the tourists to take great photos (more mad), and Max had been rambling all morning about swinging out of it - so when Marty the pilot asked us who wanted to go in the front with him - Mark and I were very quick to offer up Max! It turned out pretty well, because the Pilot can't take off without the 'ok' from his co-pilot (MAX!!), and of course Max thought that was very cool. He disembarked with a grin from ear to ear saying "did you hear him, he said we couldn't take off until I gave him the go ahead coz I'm the co-pilot". The flight was great but was over pretty quick....which I think Tess was pretty happy about - she was sitting in between Mark and I, and Mark was gripping her leg with one hand and the side of the seat with the other with all his might (not a fan of heights let alone choppers without doors). The trip back to camp was slowed only by the stop off to pick up Randy (see pic) - he's heading straight to the shed - not the pool room (he's currently strapped to the spare on the campertrailer and has a fair few miles to cover before he finds his new resting place). Mark is sure his horns are bigger than Pagey's (Randy looks forward to meeting Mary).
Day 49 was spent doing some more kms - again the road was good and we sailed along at 80km this time heading to the Durack River. The drive wasn't a long one, but Tess has taken a liking to Slim Dusty's "I'd love to have a beer with Duncan" so actually it felt like a long drive! We've ended up re-writing the lyrics and now have Timmy, Justin and Mark all having a beer in "'the shed on Friday"' as opposed to at the "'Town and Country". So it was lovely to arrive at the Durack River, and the tips on the bush camps Cwey were great - but unfortunately both were taken. We ended up camping a bit further past them in the middle of the track !
Day 50 started with a quick fish on the Durack River, where Max caught a 'dirty old catfish'. It was his last cast of the morning and he marvelled at how unlucky the fish was. We arrived at Home Valley Station at 1130am and got ourselves a River Campsite (on The Pentacost). This camp wasn't as nice as some of our others, and the wind was back with a vengeance. We spent the afternoon on the other side of the Pentecost River so they boys could again try their luck with the fish (people next to our camp had caught Barra that day), but with nothing to show for their efforts, we opted for dinner at the Station Restaurant.
The other side of the River however was nicer than Home Valley, so Day 51 was spent moving camp to the Pentecost River on the other side - for free !! Yippee. The boys tried again for Barra but came away empty handed again (water is too cool now - have had some very cold nights - 4 degrees at Mt Elizabeth on The Gibb River Rd).
Days 52, 53 and 54 were spent at El Questro Wilderness Park which was fabulous. We had hear that the place was very commercial, but there was plenty to see and the campground was great (apart from the helicopters that departed from the top of the campground at 615am and flew directly overhead). We did plenty of Gorge walks at El Questro - Day 52 we did Moonshine Gorge Walk - in our thongs !!! Bad idea. It took us nearly 2 hrs to stumble in there to the half way pool, and it was the first time we hadn't bothered with water or snacks (partly coz we were running out of snacks!). We made it back to the car after three and a half hours and scoffed sliced cheese and chocolate from the fridge. We did the El Questro Gorge walk on Day 53 - with sneakers this time which made it much easier. We enjoyed a very cool swim at the water hole before making our way back out (Tess managing to get completely soaked by continuing to step and fall into the stream as we walked). We were hoping to do the Explosion Track 4x4 drive but had left it too late in the day and only made it as far as Branco's Lookout for a drink and chips at sunset. Day 54 was pack up day and we were out of camp at 8am and headed straight for Zebedee Springs (thermal pools). The springs were great and the kids yapping and bouncing around ensured that we had our pool to ourselves. We then walked into Emma Gorge, though unfortunately Mark and Tess didn't make it all the way in as Tess wasn't feeling well. Max and I scooted in and although Max wanted a swim - he said it was too cold once he'd put his feet in. Once again a beautiful walk and a stunning reward at the end.
We left Emma Gorge and headed for Kununurra and both Mark and I had a pang of disappointment knowing it was the end of our trip across The Gibb River Rd. So sad to have that part of the trip behind us and the roar of cars, traffic lights and people awaiting us in Kununurra! The day only got worse with our $400 grocery shop - we were out of all the essentials, and unfortunately by the end of the day, The Gibb River Rd and all its treasures seemed a long way behind us.
- comments
Pa That's a great blog Jaz with fantastic news all through it...I felt like I was on the trip and I wish I'd been on the helicopter with the co-pilot. All of the photos look great and I love Tess sun-baking on the sand & was that a croc sneaking up on the kids I could see??? Thanks for taking the time to keep everyone up to date on your travels....the traveling Filmers!!
Belinda Iatrou Terrific read Jas, you guys are having a ball! I was freaking out a little at the picture of Max and Tess so close to that freshwater croc - yikes!! Thanks for keeping us all updated, be safe and continue having loads of fun X
Rach Fantastic update Jazzy - sounds and looks like you are having a ball! Had no idea that there was so much to see and do in that part of the world! You all look so relaxed and laidback, must be the outback air! Take care, lots of love and hugs to you all xxx
Pom Pom How do you find the energy to write all that, Jaz?? Fantastic and the pics too. So glad the Gibb River turned out so well and you have all enjoyed it. I think you still have plenty of country to cover without all the trappings of civilisation so don't be too depressed at leaving the wilderness! Hoping so much that I can get one more before I leave UK - I've had awful trouble (and it's not been me!) getting on to e-mails but Barbara has come up trumps here in Portsmouth. Take care and so much love to you all.
Ess & Ty "Green with Envy" We so wish we were with you! The Pang you felt when leaving the Gibb River Road is what we feel when we read your Blog and see the photo,s.......Maxy, did the Tooth Fairy find you on the Gibb River Road????? Hello, Tess, can'wait to see you in a couple of weeks. Don't forget, another big trip will be in order in a few years, when Ty & I leave The Mount and head off around Australia........ Ty has already named our Blog " Rubbing it into the Filmers"..........................Ha Ha Can't wait....... See ya Soon