We stopped in Hue (pronounced H-way) to have a nose around the historical Citadel (where the country was ruled from in the 1800s) and got our first taste of the temple-like pagoda structures that are so typical of this part of the world at Dieu De National Pagoda. Many of the rulers from the 1800s through to 1945 have their tombs here in Hue. They planned them themselves during their lifetime to get it just how they want! They are scatted over dozens of kilometres around the outskirts of the city so we just went to have a nose around one - Tomb of Tu Duc - to get a flavour. Left to rot during the American War and subsequent communist years, they look far more knackered than you would expect.

In between all the history we managed to fit in a birthday treat for Brett of spagetthi and meatballs at Hue's "oldest Italian restaurant" (est. way back in 2004). Followed by gin and tonics at the place that claims it stays open "until the last one drops". Quality.

Hoi An is a beautiful little town with a slight French Med feel to it. It's by the sea but set around the little river leading out to the sea. Streets in the centre are constructed in a french style with the shutters on the windows, yellow-ish hue to the render and dark stained wood framing the buildings in an almost Tudor manner.

The catch with somewhere this pretty, is everyone else wants a bit of it too! This was perhaps the first time we really felt on the heavily trodden tourist trail. Kerala had its share, Pokahara was loaded with foreigners, but everyone was trekking so it felt different....

The town is known as "the place" for tailoring in Vietnam so Brett got himeslf a top quality 3 piece and a couple of shirts knocked up - a lovely birthday present from the parents - thanks!

We were fortunate that we arrived during a full moon as they have a mini "festival of lights" every month and close the streets to vehicles and turn a lot of the lights out. Incredibly we had made it a week into Vietnam until we finally ate some of the tastey street food for dinner. They are also big on their freshly brewed 18p draught beer (Bia Hoi) so we felt it would be rude not to sit in the sun and enjoy some of their craft for an afternoon..or two...and maybe a few at night too...oh no is that a hangover?...There's a cure for that... (We've put a load of photos of Hoi An up in the gallery section of the blog.)