Si Phan Don (4000 Islands)

Don Khong

As we left the ferry and drove around the island the views are spectacular. Wide open spaces with arid dry paddies that had been recently harvested or lush bright green paddies that were thriving and ready to feed the island were laid out as far as the eye could see. After whizzing through dropping the locals at a couple of small villages and off loading the supplies that had been bought from the mainland, this included a dozen melons that had to be retrieved from under every seat where they had been rolling throughout the journey and were then exchanged for cigarettes. We arrived in the area of Muang Khong which literally consisted of one street along a dirt road. After crossing another dodgy wooden bridge we discovered a couple of guest houses and a few restaurants with the most stunning views overlooking the river and not a lot else.

We found a great room for a cheap price and after filling up on our staple diet of fried vegetables, rice and Pad Thai we made the most of it and settled in for an early night.

The next day we decided to explore the island so we hired bicycles and set off on our round trip. The roads were one step up from dirt track but still good for cycling as they were straight, flat and extended for miles.

For the first half an hour the scenery consisted of the magnificent paddy fields extending out to the mountainous backdrop in a patchwork of colour all cleverly knitted together and perfectly managed. The irrigation system was fascinating; intricate inlets containing water pumped up from the river and held in pools. Whilst one field had been harvested and was drying out another field would be flooded and planted providing a continuous supply of food and crop rotation.

This water fed the palms and fluffy trees that were dotted around usually with a farmer lazing in a hammock seeking shade from the stifling heat of the midday sun; they also provided the mud for the big healthy buffalo to keep cool after grazing on dry wheat generally accompanied by the cheeky birds that sit on their heads and back.

After a while we came across a few wooden structures grouped together housing the farming community. As with most of the houses these were constructed with a mixture of wooden planks and bamboo weave creating a shed that sat high on thick wooden stilts. There is a ladder or steps leading up to what is usually one open plan room that is used for sleeping. The open area under the house is the lounge (hammocks and cushions), dining room (blanket on the floor or maybe table & chairs) and kitchen (open fire or gas hob with huge cooking pots) with the weather being so hot this is where the families seem to spend most of their day. We are not quite sure where the bathrooms are but it was amusing to watch a young lad getting ready for school by having a wash in the pool of river water by the side of the road. After ducking himself under a few times lathering up in soap and repeating the process he was satisfied and began brushing his teeth in the same dirty water which the ducks bathing beside him found almost as funny and shocking as we did.

After cycling a few more kilometers we came across small villages that consisted of groups of Bamboo houses. They are all similar in design but with some on the floor, some on stilts, some had shutters at the windows some just had open window holes, some are made solidly from wooden planks and finished perfectly and others are strengthened and adapted with planks of wood that haven't been cut or finished and are left nailed into position at higgledy piggledy lengths. Despite all the differences in appearance all are humble dwellings that house sometimes 3 generations of family and all are cleaned and tended to constantly even though the owners have very little in terms of home comforts they are fiercely house proud and grateful for what they have.

Each village has a Temple/Shrine, a couple of makeshift shops and a couple of bar/restaurants all except the temples are peoples homes with a space outside converted with the necessary supplies and the obligatory hammock. There is construction happening everywhere in Laos and Don Khong was no exception, it seemed everyone pitched in and bamboo, wood and a few brick structures were underway.

Everywhere you look there are chickens. Hens with lots of chicks following her every move scratching around in the dirt, Roosters who have no sense of time keeping and just crow all day, exerting their authority strutting around chest out, they are very comical to watch. There are also lots of cattle and buffalo each family tries to own at least one or two. It all contributes to their self sufficiency and by growing their own vegetables, rice and herbs they feed their family and pool together to stabilize their communities.

The main shopping area consisted of one long dirt road with lots of little shacks selling variations of the same goods, mainly household items, newsagents of a sort, off licenses with lots of bottles of homemade rice wine and beers and other daily essentials. There was a market layout with twenty stalls selling rice, fruit, veg, buffalo milk and cheese and every other food produce that had been grown locally or like the melons imported from mainland. This little place was the main hub for the whole island and was awash with people milling around, bartering for a bargain and socializing whilst sipping coffee and catching up on the island gossip.

After leaving we continued down and around the whole island (18km long 8km wide) stopping now and again to observe the ladies tending to and walking their buffalo home, the couples and children who were chopping wood with a double hand saw working in harmony together to achieve their goal, or to rest after having yet another race on our bikes with the children who had just come out of school and couldn't wait to interact with us, practicing their English and satisfying their inquisitiveness and just having fun.

All in all we did around 22km and it was an honor to be invited into this community and experience a slice of true Laos culture and hospitality. The people on the island were warm and friendly, everyone went out of their way to greet us and make us feel welcome. We spent the whole day immersing ourselves into village life and loved every minute of it.

The evening ended perfectly with a candlelit meal overlooking the river and the limestone karsts which was very romantic (well it was Valentines Day the previous day so we made up for spending it in a van.)

Don Khong was definitely our favourite place in Laos in terms of true life, peace and the people.